A Question for Builders

[UIZ733]

I need to replace approximately 12m of fascia. It is a straight run with no corner joints involved. I am using 230 X 30 softwood (hoop pine?). The two methods of joining the pieces that I'm considering are; mitre or halving joints. See illustrations. The halving joint would be router formed, whereas the mitre would be 'hand cut'. Being router cut it 'should' a better quality finish. I don't have access to a radial arm saw to cut the mitre, if that is what is required.
Is there any reason FOR NOT using the halving joint?

[xcvator]

Bigger surface area for water to get into and rot out the timber from inside

[Rumpig]

Always joined them as per your bottom pic in my 25 years of being a chippie, never even seen it done as per first pic. Why?...because the first cut is ten times quicker and easier to do, and possibly for the reason mentioned above it never gets done that way. Don't need radial arm saw, just a small power saw with a sharp blade set at 45 degrees, and a solid square to use as a guide...job done.

[V8ute]

Exactly as Rumpig said, never seen fascia joined like that, Old skool top plates were joined like that.
Only my opinion but i would be making sure its treated (H3) and primed first.

   V8ute

[UIZ733]

Exactly as Rumpig said, never seen fascia joined like that, Old skool top plates were joined like that.
Only my opinion but i would be making sure its treated (H3) and primed first.

   V8ute

Thanks folks. It is treated and primed H3 Pine courtesy of Masters  with 50% off.

[sol]

Thanks folks. It is treated and primed H3 Pine courtesy of Masters  with 50% off.

Geeeezzzz you're a talented man mate


       

[#jonesy]

You need a drop saw (not really). But tell the missus that you need one and at the end of the job you have a new toy tool 

[oldmate]

Thanks folks. It is treated and primed H3 Pine courtesy of Masters  with 50% off.

Yep and get some primer and paint all your cuts as you go. And like Mal said, just join the same as your bottom pic.


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[UIZ733]

Geeeezzzz you're a talented man mate


       

Thanks for the vote of confidence mate.
Got most of the gear to prove i'm the real deal also.

[GGV8Cruza]

Tou could always hire a dropsaw for the day. Mitre the joint. Prime all cuts. Glue together. A glue block behind also helps if the eaves are not open.

GG

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[Rumpig]

Zero need for a drop saw to do a job like that, it's a simple power saw cut...just use one of these in the link as a guide on the saw to keep your cut straight https://www.bunnings.com.au/square-combination-stanley-saw-guide_p5666302

[GBC]

The idea is to cut your first piece of fascia with the mitre cut facing out, and finishing across a truss tail. You can fix it into position. The next piece is cut to lay over and fix into the same truss tail through the first piece. Confirm the sheet rebate in the back lines up also. It won't be the first time if the rebates aren't machined the same.
A halving joint in a thin board would be a balls up.

[tracker]

I need to replace approximately 12m of fascia. It is a straight run with no corner joints involved. I am using 230 X 30 softwood (hoop pine?). The two methods of joining the pieces that I'm considering are; mitre or halving joints. See illustrations. The halving joint would be router formed, whereas the mitre would be 'hand cut'. Being router cut it 'should' a better quality finish. I don't have access to a radial arm saw to cut the mitre, if that is what is required.
Is there any reason FOR NOT using the halving joint?

       Just wondering how many older houses are still holding to-gether after 50 years using good seasoned timber and joints that are built for strength and not a quick method.....IE mortise and tenon ...dove tail.. ect. and the first method described.....   Just saying.

    Cheers Tracker.

                                                                 

[Rumpig]

       Just wondering how many older houses are still holding to-gether after 50 years using good seasoned timber and joints that are built for strength and not a quick method.....IE mortise and tenon ...dove tail.. ect. and the first method described.....   Just saying.

    Cheers Tracker.

                                                               

in 25 years as a carpenter doing numerous old house renos i have never seen a fascia done with any of those joints you listed, which is what the original question was asked about. The other joints you mention have suitable purposes for other applications, not fascia board joints....just saying

[tracker]

in 25 years as a carpenter doing numerous old house renos i have never seen a fascia done with any of those joints you listed, which is what the original question was asked about. The other joints you mention have suitable purposes for other applications, not fascia board joints....just saying

   Sry. mate ...was not for one minute was sugesting these joints would be used in this application.....i'm just saying that the different joints that were used in the past have gone by the way side......the check out joint could be used instead of the mitre..and i would say ...it's probably stronger.......the old timber joints are gone....but ..thats progress....

[Hairs]

in 25 years as a carpenter doing numerous old house renos i have never seen a fascia done with any of those joints you listed, which is what the original question was asked about. The other joints you mention have suitable purposes for other applications, not fascia board joints....just saying

Water penetration, lack of sealing joints.
See if everyday.

[Troopy_03]

Just something else to be aware of, depending how old the house is, the fascia boards you get now may be slightly different size. When I replaced some, on one of our rental properties, the only board available was about 3mm thinner. Because of this I had to pack behind the new board where it joined the original board, to bring the outside surfaces flush. Yes, I could have replaced the whole lot, but at the time it seemed the best way to go.

[Hairs]

Yep,
The matching of new to old material is a great game 
Even better, trying to match 40 year old tiles that tenants have broken, yeah good luck with that.

[prodigyrf]

What the others said but treat the cut ends with a liberal dose of neat glycol (coolant) to prevent fungal decay in future. Either that or proprietary gear like Protim solignum XJ
http://www.kopperspc.com.au/pdf/Timber%20Care%20FAQ.pdf

[ATC]

On behalf of those of us here that aren't tradesmen, if someone comes up with a reasonable excuse that the missus will believe eg "you might need a dropsaw for that job" then we're going to run with that....

Try to be supportive, use phrases like "yeah a drop saw is good, but you might also need a triton workbench to mount it on", or constructive suggestions like "don't buy brand x, they are crap..." even "you might have difficult using a drop saw to do a mitre join, perhaps buy a router as well".

Just saying....

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[ATC]

What the others said but treat the cut ends with a liberal dose of neat glycol (coolant) to prevent fungal decay in future. Either that or proprietary gear like Protim solignum XJ
http://www.kopperspc.com.au/pdf/Timber%20Care%20FAQ.pdf

Thanks,
I have a few facia boards that will need replacing sooner than i thought.
Gutters over flowed this weekend after a heavy downpoor, cleaned out the gutter, but saw that the facias are starting to rot.

Will read up on this stuff a bit, and how to joint the boards.



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[kylarama]

On behalf of those of us here that aren't tradesmen, if someone comes up with a reasonable excuse that the missus will believe eg "you might need a dropsaw for that job" then we're going to run with that....

Try to be supportive, use phrases like "yeah a drop saw is good, but you might also need a triton workbench to mount it on", or constructive suggestions like "don't buy brand x, they are crap..." even "you might have difficult using a drop saw to do a mitre join, perhaps buy a router as well".

Just saying....

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As I qualified Carpenter, I can confirm that the correct way to install fascia boards us as follows.

Walk into a store like Total Tools and purchase one of everything you think you need, looks like it could be handy or is just plain cool. The more powerful and sharper teeth, the better.

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[ATC]

As I qualified Carpenter, I can confirm that the correct way to install fascia boards us as follows.

Walk into a store like Total Tools and purchase one of everything you think you need, looks like it could be handy or is just plain cool. The more powerful and sharper teeth, the better.

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Done, but I'll still re-read the thread and make sure that i understand what specific tools with lots of sharp teeth, or new tool, is required to take them off, prepare, prime, and replace....

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[terravista]

Go the bottom sketch, or easier yet, just butt joint them with a bit of flexible sealer squished in.
In ancient times and seasoned hardwood was never heard of (except on the Ark when Noah urinated over the side) the mitre joint was used. That way when you get a bit of shrinkage over the length of the timber there would be no obvious gap except when viewed from a 45 degree angle straight into the join. Now with seasoned and treated softwood, it would not be so critical.
And hell yes, as recommended by 90% of all Dentists, a drop saw will make the job look professionally done and also stop the curtains fading as a bonus.
Cheers

[#jonesy]

On behalf of those of us here that aren't tradesmen, if someone comes up with a reasonable excuse that the missus will believe eg "you might need a dropsaw for that job" then we're going to run with that....

Try to be supportive, use phrases like "yeah a drop saw is good, but you might also need a triton workbench to mount it on", or constructive suggestions like "don't buy brand x, they are crap..." even "you might have difficult using a drop saw to do a mitre join, perhaps buy a router as well".

Just saying....

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Finally..  Someone read my post.

Every big job I do I buy a "necessary" tool. (Sometimes I actually use it on that job)
My wife is happy for me to do it as it does make the jobs much easier with the right gear.

You could use the square and hand held saw, but that means marking where the cut is needed, then measuring back along the board to allow for the saw base.  Easier to by a drop saw, that had a wide enough cut, or if you can get away with it a sliding compound saw for even wider cuts.

On the joints, mortise and tenon, and dovetail are mostly furniture joints

Mitre joints as described and a lot of other joints like scribed corners for cornices are made to hide shrinkage, things not being square etc.  (and are legitimate joints)