Retaining wall at home

Started by Bird, September 14, 2014, 01:23:29 PM

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GeoffA

#25
September 14, 2014, 09:17:59 PM
Quote from: Bird on September 14, 2014, 09:13:30 PM
yes I do.. its just falling apart...

That was my point.....no need out here on the plains....
Geoff and Kay

1999 GU TD42T wagon
2005 Coota Camper - gone, but never forgotten
2020 North Coast 15' Titanium - tandem, of course

Land Cruiser.....the Patrol that Toyota try to build.....

Bird

#26
September 14, 2014, 09:25:16 PM
Quote from: GeoffA
That was my point.....no need out here on the plains....
far too west for normal people like me though...
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Gone to a new home

GeoffA

#27
September 14, 2014, 09:27:25 PM
Quote from: Bird on September 14, 2014, 09:25:16 PM
far too west for normal people like me though...

You're NORMAL??
Lord help us all....... :-* :-*
Geoff and Kay

1999 GU TD42T wagon
2005 Coota Camper - gone, but never forgotten
2020 North Coast 15' Titanium - tandem, of course

Land Cruiser.....the Patrol that Toyota try to build.....

brickiematt

#28
September 14, 2014, 10:07:48 PM
There are a couple of important things to consider with retaining walls.

Foundations are critical. Weak foundations = weak wall. It's no good just compacting road base on top of the old soil. It needs to be sitting on a good base of clay, so by the time you've dug down to the clay, you're better off with a concrete footing, and TBH that is the only thing i would put under a retaining wall.

Second critical point is drainage. Hydrostatic pressure is one of the biggest reasons a wall will fail. A new aggie pipe with good coverage of rock to drain water away from the wall wouldn't go astray.

As others have said, the first course of these interlocking blocks is critical. Needs to be dead level. Nothing worse than seeing retaining wall with waves in it!

The interlocking blocks will do the job to a certain height (found in the manufacturers specs), above that they would need to have steel and concrete in them. Every retaining will I've ever built has always had N16 steel vertical and horizontal and corefilled with conc. It will last forever if built right!

Mate, if you want me have a squiz sometime, just shoot me a PM. I'd be more than happy to have a look and give you some ideas.

:cheers:
Matt
Mitsubishi Pajero NT GLS
2015 Kimberley Kamper Classic

Bird

#29
April 12, 2015, 04:55:31 PM
Quote from: brickiemattMate, if you want me have a squiz sometime, just shoot me a PM. I'd be more than happy to have a look and give you some ideas.
Yea if your free sometime that would be kewl :D
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Gone to a new home

fuji

#30
April 13, 2015, 05:23:14 AM
Bruce
As some have said, use concrete sleepers with steel channelling. Very strong.
Fuji
2017 (79 series) Landcruiser, and Evernew E100😎

denidoug

#31
April 13, 2015, 07:24:00 PM
Did a 40mx1500high steel and concrete wall last year looked great and plenty strong,it was then bagged in a terracotta colour,looked even better.go with the steel and concrete,bit more $ but there for ever

Bird

#32
April 13, 2015, 08:12:00 PM
Quote from: denidougDid a 40mx1500high steel and concrete wall last year looked great and plenty strong,it was then bagged in a terracotta colour,looked even better.go with the steel and concrete,bit more $ but there for ever
not a  fan of bagging as you have to paint it over time... more work... Im lazy I want build it and ****in leave it :)
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Gone to a new home

dales133

#33
April 13, 2015, 08:53:59 PM
Quote from: Bird on April 13, 2015, 08:12:00 PM
not a  fan of bagging as you have to paint it over time... more work... Im lazy I want build it and ****in leave it :)
If you mix oxide into the render no need to paint it
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