Any truth in this?

[scarps]

The question nobody has answered is, do I need rated shackles to keep the wife chained to the kitchen?

yes, they should possibly be X rated, but more likely you're going to get a whack for suggesting it:-)

[MarkGU]

They told me these shackles were rated 

[Bad Scott]

They told me these shackles were rated 

They are its the chain that wasn't

[MarkGU]

They are its the chain that wasn't

Apparently the shoes are classified as safety boots 

[Jeepers Creepers]

Whoops, time a for a tablet and a lie down now after seeing that. 

[MarkGU]

Whoops, time a for a tablet and a lie down now after seeing that. 

just take 1/2 blue pill Jeepers, will stop you rolling out of bed mate 

[Jeepers Creepers]

and peeing on my slippers.

[dazzler]

Use the bow shackle from your recovery gear.

[Jenko67]

So...  A tow hitch on a trailer legally needs to be load rated, a tow ball legally needs to be load rated, a tow bar on a car legally needs to be load rated and safety chains legally needs to be load rated. 

Yet people are unsure if the shackles connecting the load rated chains to the load rated tow bar need to be load rated?

You are right mate. But it is a bit of an anomaly that the shackles don't have to be rated...QPS Facebook page makes it clear.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10201889607875810&id=1652065012

[Ratbag]

Gidday Gordo

Being Saturday can we all go and buy new shackles from your preferred supplier and shut this thread down. my head hurts

So does mine, mate.

Good thinking, and I intend to do exactly that.

However, I will buy the next size up from what I currently have (they will fit my chains), rather than just replacing something that I already have with something that's smaller, but stamped as rated.

[scarps]

I will buy the next size up from what I currently have (they will fit my chains), rather than just replacing something that I already have with something that's smaller, but stamped as rated.
[/quote]my swmbo just agreed with your statement............

[Ratbag]

^ Yeah, Scarps, the extra couple of bucks will hardly break the bank ...  .

Love your avatar of "Blinky" from the Simpsons ...         .

[scarps]

^ Yeah, Scarps, the extra couple of bucks will hardly break the bank ...  .

Love your avatar of "Blinky" from the Simpsons ...         .

she was actually intimating that size and rating are important considerations.......lol......

[grafy82]

Gidday Gordo

So does mine, mate.

Good thinking, and I intend to do exactly that.

However, I will buy the next size up from what I currently have (they will fit my chains), rather than just replacing something that I already have with something that's smaller, but stamped as rated.

Good to go up in size if you can, but don't for a second think that the size has anything to do with strength when comparing a rated shackle to a garden variety gal one. Its all in the material and rated shackles will most likely be an alloy grade steel as opposed to the unknown quality of mild steel used in the garden variety shackles which I would not even use to tie my dog up with.

[Swannie]

Can you use either the D or Bow shackle?
Swannie

[Jeepers Creepers]

Can you use either the D or Bow shackle?
Swannie

Yes, as long as they are not used on a Tuesday.

[Ratbag]

Gidday JC

Yes, as long as they are not used on a Tuesday.

Or on Swan Upping Sunday ...  .

I bought two of the 10mm ROMAK 1 Tonne rated galvanised D-shackles at Bunnings today. They just fit through the end link of my safety chains.

I also drilled an 8 mm hole through the link/s that are welded to the A-bar, and fitted an 8mm HT steel bolt through the link and A-bar on each side. Probably weakens it rather than the opposite, but there it is.

While at Bunnings, I bought a set of 8x 3.5m rated tie-down straps - 4x ratchet, 4x cam buckle for $2.50!! The lass scanned it twice, then said "Grab it and run!". I had to replace some old drill bits that I finally buggered completely fitting my tent. 32 years of careful use ... I also picked up a 140A "proper" arc welder (It's a choke type, heavy transformer welder. I don't really like the baby MIG/TIG ones for anything heavier than about 16 ga. sheet metal and the like - I'll put my flame-proof suit back on now ...  ). At $98 plus another $18.50 for a proper helmet and $6 for 25 2.5mm mild steel welding rods, I reckon it was an OK deal, even if it has got "Ozito" on the box ...

All in all, a succesful day. The way I figure things, I all but got the welder for nothing, as the tie-down straps were going to cost me around $60 just for 4x 2.5m ones.

[Garfish]

yes, they should possibly be X rated, but more likely you're going to get a whack for suggesting it:-)

No that's the bedroom chains your thinking of

[adrian]

Looks like another internet myth to get people talking.

MYTH – Changes to requirements for Shackles used when Towing a Trailer

http://mypolice.qld.gov.au/townsville/2014/08/08/myth-changes-requirements-shackles-used-towing-trailer/

[Ratbag]

Gidday Adrian

If you look a bit further into this, it isn't really an Internet myth.

However, it does only apply to trailers with a compliance plate of around 2010 and later, apparently.

[Bad Scott]

I also drilled an 8 mm hole through the link/s that are welded to the A-bar, and fitted an 8mm HT steel bolt through the link and A-bar on each side. Probably weakens it rather than the opposite, but there it is.

Don't want to be starting anything here

FYI - The weld is always stronger of the two metals you want to join.
When you weld it puts a lot of heat into the two bits, this then changes the metal properties being welded (heat treatment).
The two metals around the weld are hardened (brittle/weaker)

[Ratbag]

I wouldn't necessarily disagree with that assessment, SJ. It is why we welded cross-hatching on dozer blades, tines and the like on our properties way back .... It not only re-built the "cutting edge", it also hardened it very considerably compared with the base metal. The base metal has the greater tensile strength and toughness; the welded repairs had greater hardness.

Where I have drilled is on the inside of the link (obviously ... ), and the weld is around the outside of each link, so about 8-10 mm away from where I have drilled. I reckon that this should be outside of the "heat treated" zone, at a rough guess.

However, that end of the chain now 'complies'. There is nothing that says that it can't be welded as well as bolted ... Anyway, as I keep saying, the trailer is a pre-September 1989 build, and this is evidenced by the "R" number stamped on the draw bar, so it doesn't have to comply with any of this stuff. However, I also see the sense in these things, and want it to be as safe as possible, consistent with reality ...

[Bad Scott]

Fully agree Ratbag.
Sent from .................

[Garfish]

Gidday Adrian

If you look a bit further into this, it isn't really an Internet myth.

However, it does only apply to trailers with a compliance plate of around 2010 and later, apparently.

Maybe in Victoria, but not In Queensland.   I am not saying that it isn't stupid that you can use a $2 key ring holders to attach your safety chain and comply, just that in Qld it's not illegal

[Ratbag]

Gidday Garfish

I think you'll find that the relevant ASs even apply in Qld, mate ... . The one under discussion came into effect sometime in 2010.

From my Batphone