Cutting the top off fence posts

[heath74]

Hi all, I have a question re the cutting of fence posts.

I'm currently replacing the front fence, the finished product will be post and rail, with cypress pickets in between with a capping for a nice clean finish.

I'd like to have the capping, posts and kicker painted white, and oil the pickets.

I'd like to finish the posts with a beville finishing in a point maybe on the 45 deg. I've seen this finish around a fair bit and it looks good.

It would be easy to mark up and get a nice beville finish before I set the posts, but then it's hard to get the height right. Alternatively it will be difficult to get a nice beville at 1800 once the post is in the ground.

So to chippies out there, what do you recommend? Dress the top before setting the posts or after?

[Rumpig]

Another alternative is to cut the posts off after setting in place, then run a small router around with a bullnose shaped bit in it to give a rounded corner all the way around the top.

[heath74]

Yeah that would work too, thanks for the idea.

Oddly enough there is not much on this on you tube.

[GeoffA]

A 9" saw will be handy.

[Brett B]

Set all you posts
then make a timber collar that fits over the post use this as a guide set your saw to 45

[heath74]

Set all you posts
then make a timber collar that fits over the post use this as a guide set your saw to 45

Thanks, I knew there would be a simple answer!!!!

[Mace]

Sorry, spanner in the works!

45 is too steep, the crown tip  will rot off  very quickly. Use a less steeper angle. When fencing on the farm I used to use a 15 or 20 degree angle to enable water to run off but also give a longer lasting top to the post.

[heath74]

Thanks mate, will do.

[oldmate]

Another alternative is to cut the posts off after setting in place, then run a small router around with a bullnose shaped bit in it to give a rounded corner all the way around the top.

X 2. This is why Mal owns a helicopter.

A 9" saw will be handy.

I love my 9" saw. It's awesome for ripping and cutting through posts 

Sorry, spanner in the works!

45 is too steep, the crown tip  will rot off  very quickly. Use a less steeper angle. When fencing on the farm I used to use a 15 or 20 degree angle to enable water to run off but also give a longer lasting top to the post.

Agreed, not sure that I have ever done it at 45

[xcvator]

Sorry, spanner in the works!

45 is too steep, the crown tip  will rot off  very quickly. Use a less steeper angle. When fencing on the farm I used to use a 15 or 20 degree angle to enable water to run off but also give a longer lasting top to the post.

Not if he paints it properly 

[oldmate]

Not if he paints it properly 

Every year 

[Chippy76]

Cement your posts in, Pick a height at either end, run a string line between the two (making sure you are happy with the height). Mark your posts on the string line (or use a chalkie).Square the line around each post, and cut at around 20 degrees (I usually use 22 as it is marked on the saw) on all 4 sides. 

Cutting the posts to final length can be done first, however I makes I more difficult to set the height in regards to depths of holes, undulating terrain etc.

I would also consider undercoating with an oil based primer before the final coat (whether it is acrylic or oil based) as the oil based primer will soak into the timber and help to preserve it for longer (don't forget to undercoat and joins or cuts as well)

That's my 2 cents worth, and what I would do as a chippy ...

Cheers Chippy

[Mace]

and cut at around 20 degrees (I usually use 22 as it is marked on the saw) on all 4 sides. 

Cheers Chippy

Glad you agreed with me.

I only said  somewhere between 15 and 20 degrees becoz chain saws don't have an angle gauge!  I used to use the near enuff is good enuff method, bugger this lookin good overlay.

[heath74]

Thanks again gents, had a big day on the tools today. I hired a demo saw and a 4m skip, and managed to get the old brick fence down, and in the bin.

Then managed to cut the old footings and set the posts in the ground.

[D4D]

That's a good effort in the rain, at least there wouldn't have been a lot of dust.

[heath74]

No dust at all, and we are on very sandy soil, so no mud.  I did have the pop up shade out for a bit of shelter, and apprentice aged 9 who worked like a demon all day with me.

Very motivated at the moment, as he's saving for a net book!

Also meant to say, big thumbs up to Kennards dandenong, let me have the saw all day at the 4 hr rate, good blokes, very helpful. No affiliation, just a happy customer.

[heath74]

So far so good, gate going on tomorrow, and some oil on the pailings still to come.

[Brett B]

That came up well 

[D4D]

That looks very nice

[xcvator]

You wanna do 1 for me 

[oldmate]

Nice one mate. Looks good

[Ynot]

Nice job, you coming up to Queensland soon?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[heath74]

Thanks gents, pretty happy with how it's coming together.

It's nice to get out from behind the desk from time to time, but not sure I'd cope doing it full time!

[heath74]

A couple of picks working with the apprentice,

The gate is wide, and is going to need some support,  I can't put another post in, as the whole point of the excercise is to make space for the new expanda.

I'm looking for one of those wheels with a spring that you see on gates?

Not at bunnings, masters or Mitre 10.

Anyone know where I might be able to get one?

[oldmate]

Have you got a place like this?  I get stuff like that from here at nerang, not that close for you, maybe scarps could help.

http://www.formulawheels.com.au/contact.php