Winch isolator

[Robert Alley]

Hi All,

I want to put an isolator on my winch. What do people use?

Rob

[stevo]

I got an isolator from Jaycar (part number SF2245), cost about $20. I fitted it beside the battery and it splices in to the earth wire from the winch to the battery. It is always left turned off until i am out 4wding. Cheap and easy.

[MarkGU]

Rob
dunno what name they give mine but i just bought one of those full metal jobs ( they look strong ) and chucked it on just near the battery under the bonnet. i put it there as its tucked under the bonnet safe away from fingers switching it on.

[Sixtys Guy]

Not cheap, but I use a Blue Seas E series switch. I originally used a cheaper generic marine battery isolator (that was rated to 350 amps momentary and 250 amps continuous) but it melted one of the terminals into the plastic. Second time around I really wanted to get something that could handle plenty of amps.

http://bluesea.com/category/78/1/products/9003e

Cranking Rating: 10 sec. = 2,000 Amps
Cranking Rating: 1 min. = 1,000 Amps
Intermittent Rating: 5 min.= 600 Amps
Continuous Rating = 350 Amps

[Robert Alley]

I have been looking at the Blue sea M series just slightly lower specs from the 12 Volt shop. Any other ideas?

Rob

[D4D]

I'm not a fan of switching the high current side as I've seen those switches melt under heavy winching.

IIRC there is a small negative that you can switch via a relay as per diagram below. You can also switch the hand controller but this won't isolate the solenoids.

[D4D]

The newer 5 pin is a bit different but same concept

[GeoffA]

I've been thinking about this too.

My concern is that the + cable from the battery to the solenoid pack (which is next to the winch) is always live.
What happens in a bingle? The + cable seems very exposed.

I know the + cable to the starter is the same, but it's all further back in the car.

Maybe mount the solenoid pack further back in the engine bay, and extend the cables to the winch?

Just wondering.........

[GGV8Cruza]

Maybe mount the solenoid pack further back in the engine bay, and extend the cables to the winch?

Just wondering.........

That is waht I have done with an Albright solenoid, much neater and also out of the weather and the mud

GG

[Sixtys Guy]

I have been looking at the Blue sea M series just slightly lower specs from the 12 Volt shop. Any other ideas?

Thanks for the heads up on the 12 volt shop. I bought my last one from Ebay in the US because I couldn't find them locally. They also have the E series on there too.

[kylarama]

Maybe mount the solenoid pack further back in the engine bay, and extend the cables to the winch?

That's what I did when I had the winch on my Hilux.  Made new cables and mounted the solenoid pack high and dry on top of the inner guard, was going to mount an in dash switch but never got around to it.

As for isolation, I just fitted a longer bolt to the battery terminal with the first nut to tighten everything.  Then had a big wingnut on the end to connect the winch + cable when required, this way the winch was dead all the time.  Sound a bit of mucking around, but in all it took about 90 seconds to pop the bonnet, plug in the controller and hook up the power cable.  It's the quickest thing you'll do in a winch recovery.

[Sixtys Guy]

The problem that I had in the past was the winch motor corroding and shorting. Since then I decided an isolation switch was the sensible thing to do. I have a 2 way switch in the Cruiser that allows me to winch off either battery or both which is handy. I've just fitted a winch to the Pajero but I think I will just go for the on/off switch.

[GeoffA]

That is waht I have done with an Albright solenoid, much neater and also out of the weather and the mud

GG

GG,

A few advantages in moving it into the engine bay. Looks like a good way to do it.
I'd struggle to find a spot in the engine bay for the original solenoid pack.
Where did you get the Albright solenoid from? Do you have a part number?

[D4D]

http://smithiengineering.com.au/products-page/albright-solenoids/

[GeoffA]

http://smithiengineering.com.au/products-page/albright-solenoids/

Thanks. I'll call them tomorrow..........

[Robert Alley]

I already run the control box under the bonnet. I am fitting an albright and want to put in an isolator as well.

Rob

[britts]

Definatly fit an isolator as i have had the solinoid cook & the winch keep running, the only way to stop it was to disconnect the battery nothing else worked, toolbox was in the back with a live line attached to me, disconnected with a metre to go.

[GGV8Cruza]

http://smithiengineering.com.au/products-page/albright-solenoids/

Thats the one, great service and great product, thanks D4D


GG

[kiwipete]

I also tucked my control box up under the bonnet...  But also upgraded all cable..

[GeoffA]

Not cheap, but I use a Blue Seas E series switch. I originally used a cheaper generic marine battery isolator (that was rated to 350 amps momentary and 250 amps continuous) but it melted one of the terminals into the plastic. Second time around I really wanted to get something that could handle plenty of amps.

http://bluesea.com/category/78/1/products/9003e

Cranking Rating: 10 sec. = 2,000 Amps
Cranking Rating: 1 min. = 1,000 Amps
Intermittent Rating: 5 min.= 600 Amps
Continuous Rating = 350 Amps

Any reason you didn't use one from the HD series........?

http://bluesea.com/category/78/1/products/3000

Cranking Rating: 10 sec.     2,750 Amps
Cranking Rating: 1 min.       1,325 Amps
Intermittent Rating: 5 min.  900 Amps
Continuous Rating               600 Amps
Maximum Voltage Rating      32 Volts DC

They're rated at 600 amps continuous, and don't seem that much more expensive.....(12 volt shop)

[Robert Alley]

The HD is bigger in size and the spec's of the M is high enough I think.

M-Series (Mini) Battery Switch Single Circuit ON/OFF

Inrush Rating: 0.25 sec (10 repeats)*   1,500 Amperes DC
Cranking Rating: 9.75 sec (10 repeats)*   700 Amperes DC
Intermittent Rating: 5 min (UL 1107)   500 Amperes DC
Continuous Rating: (UL 1107)   300 Amperes DC

What do you think?

Rob

[OffRoadDave]

Bah, solenoids and Albrights are a bit techy for this job, I use a 300A welding cable connector, never failed me yet.

[Robert Alley]

 Never thought of that. Good one

Rob

[Sixtys Guy]

Any reason you didn't use one from the HD series........?

http://bluesea.com/category/78/1/products/3000

No reason at all...... I can't say that I knew about the HD one when I purchased mine. It would appear that the HD one would be the better option!

[GeoffA]

After reading OffRoadDave's suggestion, I bought 1 of these..........

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380404382614#ht_500wt_1203

Here's another version of the same principle..........

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300438061775?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3508wt_1170

Simple, but effective.........thanks Dave

Also ordered an Albright solenoid today.