Transmission Windup Query

[chester ver2.0]

Hi guys quick question on transmission windup with the dmax

i know you should not drive on a paved surface with the dmax in 4WD Hi or low range as you will wind up the transmission from turning the wheels.

My question is does the same apply for going in a straight line

Query is because i just bought a boat and while it is not an overly steep driveway i reverse up, i do have to give it a bit at low speed and was wondering if i get it all lined up to the point i just have to go straight back into the shed without turning (may be a degree or 2 for correction) would it then be acceptable to stick the vehicle in 4WD low range to make things a little easier to cover the last couple of meters on the steepest part of the incline (about 5% slope)

It would be in 4WD low for a length of about 6 meters

[cassgazz]

Hey Chester,
I don't 6 meters is going to cause you any dramas.
I once drove for approx. 100kms in high range, and wondered why it was so hard to turn once I got into a carpark.

[Pottsy]

I reckon you won't be the first or the last to put it into 4wd to negotiate a steep drive, 6m, no issue I'd reckon, just be sure you throw it back into 2wd after.

[Craig Tomkinson]

Hi chester, I have done all my driving life, I go strait into low range I do not even put the hubs in, its just to get a lower gear to back down the ramp and pull the boat back up the ramp, but if its steep and wet I put the hubs in, its so much eser on the clutch if its manual, especially if towing a big boat,  Craig

[GBC]

The trick with the electric/push button diffs is to drive back out the exact opposite of the way you went in and to take it back out of low range in the same spot that you put it in. When it is wound up it won't release and you'll have to jack up a front wheel to get it to release if it won't let go. There will no doubt be an electric work around on a DMAX forum whereby you install a switch which allows you to select low range and remain in 2 wheel drive, or install aftermarket front manual hubs but that option is getting pretty rare these days. If the dmax has an electrically operated front diff it may be as easy as pulling a fuse - assuming it is on a different circuit to the transfer case motor. You'll throw a fault but the car should still drive.

EDIT: Ta daaaa.......... :

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FW-Hubs-Isuzu-DMax-D-Max-Holden-Rodeo-Jackaroo-Colorado-Frontera-4WD-4x4-Trooper?item=170719142899&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4256822570797607225#ht_2800wt_922

[macca]

As Craig said, if you have free wheeling hubs, dont engage them and select 4wd low, no wind up as you are basically in low range 2wd.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[chester ver2.0]

No freewheeling hubs unfortunately

[KingBilly]

The trick with the electric/push button diffs is to drive back out the exact opposite of the way you went in and to take it back out of low range in the same spot that you put it in. When it is wound up it won't release and you'll have to jack up a front wheel to get it to release if it won't let go. There will no doubt be an electric work around on a DMAX forum whereby you install a switch which allows you to select low range and remain in 2 wheel drive, or install aftermarket front manual hubs but that option is getting pretty rare these days. If the dmax has an electrically operated front diff it may be as easy as pulling a fuse - assuming it is on a different circuit to the transfer case motor. You'll throw a fault but the car should still drive.

EDIT: Ta daaaa.......... :

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FW-Hubs-Isuzu-DMax-D-Max-Holden-Rodeo-Jackaroo-Colorado-Frontera-4WD-4x4-Trooper?item=170719142899&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4256822570797607225#ht_2800wt_922

It is not the front diff which is engaged, it is one side of the front axle, when the button/rotary dial is used to select 4WD high range.

KB

[KingBilly]

Chester, straight line, short distance, I reckon you will be OK.  Don't spin a wheel though.

KB

[GBC]

Just a terminology hangover from owning Toyotas with A.D.D.'s.

It doesn't sound like the actuator has changed from the rodeo/Colorado/Dmax days then. In which case I'd be buying the hubs in the link above as a matter of course to save wear and tear and a bit of fuel as well.

[Aaron Schubert]

Should be fine, but for peace of mind and other benefits you can buy free wheeling hubs. The Aisin ones are the ones to get, apparently: https://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/1-x-fhg-001-fwh-aisin-manual-free-wheeling-hubs-is

I'm told the earlier Jackeroo and maybe even the Rodeo ones also fit, so you could get some from a wrecker and chuck them on

Aaron

[RebsWA]

Mate, just line the rig up, 4wd low, back her up where you want her, select 2wd then drive down. All will be good. 

[glenm64]

Mate, just line the rig up, 4wd low, back her up where you want her, select 2wd then drive down. All will be good. 

Yep. In a straight line you would have to do a long way before wind up becomes an issue. It will only be from differential in front to back tyre sizes if your driving straight line.

Cheers Glen

[Beachman]

Last year I needed a small amount of panel beating done. Picked up the car and felt like the hand brake was sticking all the way home (about 15kms) got home and as I turned into my driveway I heard the wheel with the least load/weight give a little spin.

That made me think and then I noticed my sunglass case was on the little dash near the speedo and it was blocking the 4WD light. Turns out the centre diff button had been pushed and I have driven home in 4WD high.

I drive a 100 series Landcruiser which are full time 4WD, but the centre diff button in knee height so it appears they bumped it activating locked 4WD.

Luckily no long term damage which of know of.