Buying a Patrol....advice needed

[Paul (SA)]

After months of research on buying a new 4wd, I reckon I have settled on a Patrol.  I can't afford a Prado or Cruiser and am not totally sold on the Pajero. Looking at a diesel no older than 2010.

Can anyone give me some advice on what to look out for when inspecting them, any common issues to be wary of etc. How do they stack up performance and reliability wise?

I know I can go to the Patrol forums online, but wanted to ask here first.

Cheers, Paul

[time]

Go here http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums for some really good advice on what to look for and those models to avoid.  The early 3.0l Patrols are referred to as handgrenade for good reason, I have my suspicions about the later 3.0 l modles as well.

I own a GU IV 4.2 tdi, rare as hens teeth and cost a bomb, mine is 9 years old and still worth its original [purchase price

[Alan Loy]

Big decision diesel or petrol.  I went diesel but it is a risk.  I have modded the engine and am very happy with it's performance but it's not cheap.  New intercooler,exhaust and engine management system did the trick.  Petrol is cheaper to buy but more expensive to run.

[Bird]

I would go a Pajero or Prado or Series 1 landrover with no engine over a Grenade any day.

But it depends on what sort of wheeling/touring you do..

Prado's aren't that expensive since your buying used...

[Jakster1]

The late model CRD patrols don't suffer from the melting pistons of the early model Di patrols.
They have a larger sump, revised head design and better ECU along with other engine changes.
Don't be scared off by the hand grenade story's of early models.
They're an awesome offroad 4x4 truck. Strong and reliable.
Not as refined or powerful as later model brands but IMO go better at tough 4wding.
They have alot of scope to modify it if that's what your into.
Pajeros are independent suspension all round.
Great around town, for touring and general driving, but be careful if your going to give it a hard time 4wding.

[Bullant4x4]

You have chosen well!!!!

When looking, check out the underneath and get right under the vehicle to see if it's been bashed around.

Try and get something that's just been on road and not decked out for 4x4. If it's ready for the bush, it's been in the bush.

[Squalo]

You'll be happy with your choice the first time you take it offroad.

I'd go for a GU8 if I were you (April 2012+) as they got the most significant upgrade since the CRD motor in April 2007. The STs got the TI/ST-L rear aircon (second compressor in the left rear quarter panel and roof vents for middle and rear seats), and all GU8s have traction/stability control, plus a switchable rear diff lock (as the LSD did not play well with the TC).

You'll also be buying one that is still in its 3 year warranty, which is good because if it's a keeper you can get the warranty extended another 3 years or up to 150,000km, whatever comes first. Ensure that it is a factory warranty though, and not a dealer warranty which is a waste of money.

As for what goes wrong, there's a few things, but none of them will stop the vehicle.

- intercooler header tanks can crack
- exhaust manifold can warp (CRD runs extremely hot EGTs and the manifold expands so much it stretches the studs in the head, so then it's loose, and then it warps)
- EGR pipe that runs behind the head can crack
- serpentine belt tensioner can fail (shared issue with all ZD30s from 2000 onwards)
- oil weeps on block
- TPS (throttle position sensor) can play up
- have heard of leaking injectors and relief valves
- dash top can bubble on earlier GU IV but that might have been resolved by 2010+
- rear coil hats/brackets can crack if the vehicle has been used on rough surfaces whilst heavily laden

None of them are 'common' faults, but they do occur. Ways to fix them are documented on both NissanPatrol.com.au and Patrol4x4.com but if you have warranty you are a happy camper!

Personally I'd go auto over manual, this is because the ZD30 is about power, not torque - it loves a good rev and a 5-speed box keeps you pretty busy. Auto is more fun offroad too and in low range it descends steep terrain with good control when locked in 1st. As for outright performance, average when standard, and worse if you fit 33" tyres. But a larger diameter exhaust with high flow cat really wakes it up, a chip even more so. You can also fit a more efficient intercooler, and even a taller intercooler scoop (proven to lower intake temps significantly, and by extension exhaust gas temps).

Fuel economy is a weird one with the CRD. Some people report 11.5/100km (close to what Nissan claims) and others are up around the 16-17l/100km mark - and it makes no difference whether stock or modded, snorkel or no snorkel etc. Mine averaged 15-16l... we're no closer to working that one out as the various topics on this have led nowhere.

My 2008 auto on 33" tyres had a 3" Scotts Rods exhaust, Steinbauer chip and EGR block, and it would happily pull a tonne of camper trailer up a mountain pass without raising a sweat. Zippy in traffic when unladen too. I'm not a fast driver but I never felt the need for more, and my other car is a Territory so I had a good yardstick for the CRDs performance.

If you're looking at an example that has done a bit of work while laden (either all kitted up for camping, or set up to tow a heavy van), get under and have a look at the rear coil hats - lots of weight can lead to them cracking. Superior Engineering makes a good bolt-in brace kit to head that issue off. If the car has oversize tyres, check the big barn door for cracks.

If you want to see how particular the dealership was with servicing, look under the front and check whether the steering lock stop bolts are in place. They vibrate out... my dealership noticed when this had happened and they fitted new ones.

If it hasn't been done, a second earth strap from body to chassis is a good thing to do, as the factory earthing is a bit ordinary.

[Aaron Schubert]

I reckon the newer (2006 +) patrols are awesome value for money. The drivelines are great, and for what you pay, you can't go wrong

Aaron

[Dakkas]

In my search I ended up choosing between the Prado, Patrol and the Pajero. Prado got turfed as I didn't feel it was very good value for money so had to decide Patrol or Pajero.

In the end I went with the Pajero, safer, more fuel efficient, handles better on road, more refined, quicker, tow's with ease and got a cracking deal.

I've kept up with Landcruisers and Patrols everywhere. Yes you have less wheel travel but the traction control is ace and compensates for it.

Comes down to what you want. As an all rounder the Pajero can't be beaten for value.

[swanny]

Im not sure anyone could go past the advise Squalo has given, all very good points.

For me, im on my second first being a DI and second being a CRD, they're chalk and cheese if you ask me, Ive had no probs with either vehicle. Ive just had my CRD up the cape for the last month and it performed flawlessly, and I did all the tracks and some, towing 1.5t CT.

Its not a rocket ship, but once you do a few mods, and I have, you will defo feel the difference in the vehicle, that said they are a very capable vehicle straight of the shelf, there just not a rocket ship.

Whilst its a little agricultural compared to other makes, its still a nice drive, but once you get it in the bush, you will know why you bought it, the drive line is second to none, and its capability for a small engine 4x4 is awesome.

If ya haven't made your mind up yet, keep shopping around, there would some decent LC's out there, but they may have a few ks on them, but worth a look.

Good luck.

Swanny

[speewa158]

Geta bang out of life get a patrol/grenade . Do it properly Go The Pajero 

[KeithB]

Just on Bullant 4x4's comment, what's wrong with buying a 4WD that has done a bit of bush work? As long as it checks out mechanically after a rigorous examination, what's the problem?  Quite often a few bush pinstripes can cut thousands off the cost and accessories that could cost you a fortune come in a fraction of their replacement cost when screwed on to a second hand vehicle.

Where's the merit in buying a second hand 4WD that's spent all its life in traffic? Or maybe it's spent the last three years towing a 3,500 kg caravan around the block?

I think you have to check the service history and the use history and see if they equate to what you see. Then a thorough half day check by a mechanic who regularly works on that make and model. Compression test, wheel alignment and all.

That's my two bob's worth anyway.

[Jakster1]

A 4wd that has had extreme tension on the motor and driveline, bounced and bashed its way along and up rocky and rutted tracks, been bogged in mud upto the door handles, scraped its way through thich bushscrub, driven along or through salty water, driven off or up and over ledges that you need ropes to scale.
Or mums shopping cart that had to park on the verge onetime at Christmas because there were no  car parks left at the shopping centre.
I know which I would choose.
Of course check it out mechanically before you take ownership.
It's like buying a sportscar that's modded to be a drift or drag car vs a standard version for a daily driver.
Anyway
It's a patrol and can handle being thrashed in the bush so it'll be right!