attaching shower shelves to tiles

Started by paceman, July 20, 2015, 07:05:38 AM

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paceman

hi all,

looking for advice from the builders/carpenters/home renovators... :)

i have some shower shelves i want to install, but i am just trying to decide what sort of fastener to use...

my shower has tiles attached to 'villaboard' (i think is it's name) and i was going to use something like this:



one for each side of the shelf.

i know that i have to get a proper tile bit (with some tape on the tile to stop movement, etc) but i was wondering if there are any other fastener options?

the 10KG weight limit on the toggle bolts shown is enough...

the shelf attachment doesn't really lend itself to using liquid nails, and the advice i got from the retailer (reece) was that screwing in was the norm?

any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Snapman007

Whatever fixing you choose, make sure you don't drill through (or damage) the waterproofing membrane.
Cheers,
Paul

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paceman

Quote from: Snapman007 on July 20, 2015, 07:26:56 AM
Whatever fixing you choose, make sure you don't drill through (or damage) the waterproofing membrane.

i have to, don't i?  doesn't it sit between the tiles and the villaboard?

dales133

What size is the shelf and what do you intend to put on it?
You should realy put at least one faster in a stud.and if you go on a grout join you could drill through the tile only and glue the shelf on and screw into the villa board with the second screw.
I don't recommend using plugs as they almost always fail in this situation or crack tiles.
U usualy add timber prior to lining to carry the shelf ect.

paceman

Quote from: dales133 on July 20, 2015, 07:39:20 AM
What size is the shelf and what do you intend to put on it?
You should realy put at least one faster in a stud.and if you go on a grout join you could drill through the tile only and glue the shelf on and screw into the villa board with the second screw.
I don't recommend using plugs as they almost always fail in this situation or crack tiles.
U usualy add timber prior to lining to carry the shelf ect.

thanks for the info...

i am going to try and put one in a stud, but just trying to see if i am on the right track with fasteners for no-stud area.. :)

dales133

Got a picture of the shelf?
And what weight are you putting g on it?
A screw will hold in the cement sheet fine, just drill clearance through the tile so it dosn't crack...Don't drill through the cement sheet and sikaflex the back of the shelf, or translucent silicone to help spread the load.
But the key thing is don't put much weight on the shelf

paceman

Quote from: dales133 on July 20, 2015, 07:45:57 AM
Got a picture of the shelf?
And what weight are you putting g on it?
A screw will hold in the cement sheet fine, just drill clearance through the tile so it dosn't crack...Don't drill through the cement sheet and sikaflex the back of the shelf, or translucent silicone to help spread the load.
But the key thing is don't put much weight on the shelf

pic below:



maybe 1-2 kgs on the shelf?

dales133

I'd use super strong double sided tape or polyurethane adhesive as well as screws but tell the Mrs and kids it's not a grab handle and not to load it up much.
I'm not realy a fan of them in showers for those two reasons.


GGV8Cruza

If you do drill the tile and penetrate the wall silicon must be applied to the hole and the screw thread to keep the shower membrane intact.

I would not be using any fixing method that relies on a toggle or compression fixing as at some time there will be a failure. When we build are bathrooms we install noggings to take fixtures, this is more difficult in an older bathroom.

Have you though of something like this that is easy to fix,
http://www.hsw.com.au/?product&id_prod=5957&id_cat=108&id_dept=539#.Vawlw_mqqko

GG

paceman

Quote from: GGV8Cruza on July 20, 2015, 08:37:08 AM
If you do drill the tile and penetrate the wall silicon must be applied to the hole and the screw thread to keep the shower membrane intact.

I would not be using any fixing method that relies on a toggle or compression fixing as at some time there will be a failure. When we build are bathrooms we install noggings to take fixtures, this is more difficult in an older bathroom.

Have you though of something like this that is easy to fix,
http://www.hsw.com.au/?product&id_prod=5957&id_cat=108&id_dept=539#.Vawlw_mqqko

GG

we've tried suction shelves before... they just don't work (for us, anyways...)

plus, we already have the new shelves... :)  got them in a package deal with a new towel rack and dunny roll holder...


those HSW shelves look OK, might be stronger than the other ones we have seen?


GGV8Cruza

Quote from: paceman on July 20, 2015, 08:46:31 AM
we've tried suction shelves before... they just don't work (for us, anyways...)

plus, we already have the new shelves... :)  got them in a package deal with a new towel rack and dunny roll holder...


those HSW shelves look OK, might be stronger than the other ones we have seen?

I would just go with a green plug (not the cheap ones supplied with the shelf) to start and see how they hold, if you can find a stud for at least one fitting it will help, but that can be difficult if the whole wall is tiled.

GG

paceman

Quote from: GGV8Cruza on July 20, 2015, 09:48:33 AM
I would just go with a green plug (not the cheap ones supplied with the shelf) to start and see how they hold, if you can find a stud for at least one fitting it will help, but that can be difficult if the whole wall is tiled.

GG

like these:


GGV8Cruza

Yes, I would use those, a squirt of clear silicone as you put it in the wall and then a squirt on the tread of the screw.

To drill the tile I would use either of the attached, no hammer just slow drilling as not to produce too much heat, water dip if needed. Depending on the type of tile I normally use the first type of drill bit which cores the tile, 6mm for the green plug. I would also locate the hole in the tile face not too close to the edge or in the joint, you can easily crack and chip the tile in this area.

GG

MDS69

If you do drill through the tile use a masonry drill bit but turn off the hammer function on the drill.

paceman

thanks for the info, guys...

we may end up returning the shelves, depending on how the previously linked HSW shelves go...

might get one to test before returning the others... :)

Beachman

Quote from: GGV8Cruza on July 20, 2015, 10:36:09 AM
Yes, I would use those, a squirt of clear silicone as you put it in the wall and then a squirt on the tread of the screw.

To drill the tile I would use either of the attached, no hammer just slow drilling as not to produce too much heat, water dip if needed. Depending on the type of tile I normally use the first type of drill bit which cores the tile, 6mm for the green plug. I would also locate the hole in the tile face not too close to the edge or in the joint, you can easily crack and chip the tile in this area.

GG

I recently placed one of these extendable magnification vanity mirrors on the tilled wall in our bathroom and I used 1st drill bits which GGV8Cruza posted up. Had a cup of water which I dipped the drill bit into every 30 seconds to keep it cool and remove dust and it worked a treat. Then put a couple of those green wall plus and worked well.

This method was recommend by a tiler friend who also lent me a drill bit template (This has about 6 holes which you use as a template, so suction this device over the hole with the appropriate sized bit you need to drill your hole and it stops your drill bit moving around – Worked very well)

Rumpig

GGV8Cruza is on the money with just using plugs and silicone, though i prefer to use the ram plugs over the green plugs myself.... like these http://www.ramset.com.au/Product/Detail/77/RamPlug-Nylon-Frame-Anchors I have done heaps like he has said on new fit offs in bathrooms. I always make sure i put silicone in the hole and on the back of the backing plate you fix to the wall also, you'd be surprised at how well silicone helps hold stuff on. Just don't go overboard with the silicone... if it spews out to far where it'll be seen, give all around it a squirt with soapy water from a spray bottle before you touch it, it will help stop you spreading silicone all over the tiles further. The spear shaped drill bits are great to use for most tiles, if you get really hard ones the type pictured above those he has posted work great with plenty of water from a spray bottle as you go to keep the drill bit cool.
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paceman

As it turns out, I have a box of spare tiles to play with, so I can test my drilling skills before attempting to damage the real tiles...  :D

GGV8Cruza


paceman

Quote from: GGV8Cruza on July 24, 2015, 05:41:22 PM
Which drill bit do you have?

GG

haven't got one yet, but was thinking this one (6.5mm is the green plug size i have as well):

http://www.bunnings.com.au/sutton-tools-6-5mm-glass-and-tile-drill-bit_p6350098


Hewy54

And make sure of where you are drilling - well away from any electrical cable or water pipes behind.

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Snapman007

As Hewys suggesting, turn the power off or flood the floor and get my MIL to do the drilling.
Cheers,
Paul

2003 V8 Sahara
2010 Lifestyle Extenda Elite
Great haircut

GGV8Cruza

Quote from: paceman on July 24, 2015, 05:43:56 PM
haven't got one yet, but was thinking this one (6.5mm is the green plug size i have as well):

http://www.bunnings.com.au/sutton-tools-6-5mm-glass-and-tile-drill-bit_p6350098


Should be fine. No hammer. Slow drill. Heat is your enemy. Good luck

Gag

fuji

Aldi have them on sale for $5 per shelf. DON'T BUY IT!! ITS CRAP!!!
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oldmate

What are the tiles?  Stone, ceremic, porcelain?

If just ceremic with a clay back you won't have an issue with any type of the drills mentioned. If they are stone or porcelain, I would be using the diamond cutter gg put a pic off before. Even some ceramics are a nightmare, sometimes.
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