1
General Discussion / Re: What made you smile - 2020
« Last post by Fizzie on Today at 07:55:31 AM »Yeah, amazed it's still there 
Recent Posts
2
General Discussion / Re: Interesting read on electric cars
« Last post by Fizzie on Today at 07:52:03 AM »EV's need something that makes noise on them to let you know they are coming up on you from behind ..
Had the same thing happen last week ...
Went for a walk round the block, heard a funny rattle of some sort, looked back & the postie on his new trike was about 3m's behind me!
Yeah, it's only a postie trike but still scared the $%^& out of me
3
General Discussion / Re: Something to consider if buying a Large tow vehicle
« Last post by plusnq on Today at 07:35:13 AM »Thanks, great advice!
4
General Discussion / Re: JEEPER'S.... Street/Strip Jalopy Build.
« Last post by edz on Today at 07:22:09 AM »Virtualy running on a Single wheel .... Fronts doing airtime, left rear unloading to a full spinning balloon doing little and relying on the torque loaded Right rear to grip and send you straight off the line in the blink of an eye .... 
5
General Discussion / Camper Axle, Bearings, Hubs and Wheel Studs. Can you buy them?
« Last post by DaveR on Today at 07:11:23 AM »Swaggers.
Sadly, I can report with 1st hand experience, the sad tale of the worst wow for some very unhappy campers.
I'm in the business of shifting vehicles long haul.
I have moved several broken vans and campers over the last 18 months and seen many move through our yards, and the reasons for them to fail are varied, but, the worst by far is due to manufacturing failure and the availability of replacement items being Nil.
I DO NOT want to start some sort of battle of import v local made argument.
When looking to buy any brand of camper, hybrid camper, or van, please check with the sales people in writing and ask for evidence about the availability of spares for EVERYTHING chassis down.
I have taken a new Camper (no, I wont say what it was) from central west NSW back home due to the wheel studs shearing of and the wheel separating from the axle. The camper was taken on a tilt tray to the local mechanic who then found it was not possible to buy the replacement studs, or anything similar in Australia. Then it was found that the HUBS and AXLES were not standard. The Makers people had no spares for this nor could they find anything either......
Luckily, for the owner, we took the camper to a chassis specialist for a chassis down rebuild of quality components under warranty. We have had several campers go through the yard for this reason.
If you have bought something recently, ask this question to the dealer with evidence such as parts numbers.
Sadly, I can report with 1st hand experience, the sad tale of the worst wow for some very unhappy campers.
I'm in the business of shifting vehicles long haul.
I have moved several broken vans and campers over the last 18 months and seen many move through our yards, and the reasons for them to fail are varied, but, the worst by far is due to manufacturing failure and the availability of replacement items being Nil.
I DO NOT want to start some sort of battle of import v local made argument.
When looking to buy any brand of camper, hybrid camper, or van, please check with the sales people in writing and ask for evidence about the availability of spares for EVERYTHING chassis down.
I have taken a new Camper (no, I wont say what it was) from central west NSW back home due to the wheel studs shearing of and the wheel separating from the axle. The camper was taken on a tilt tray to the local mechanic who then found it was not possible to buy the replacement studs, or anything similar in Australia. Then it was found that the HUBS and AXLES were not standard. The Makers people had no spares for this nor could they find anything either......
Luckily, for the owner, we took the camper to a chassis specialist for a chassis down rebuild of quality components under warranty. We have had several campers go through the yard for this reason.
If you have bought something recently, ask this question to the dealer with evidence such as parts numbers.
6
General Discussion / Something to consider if buying a Large tow vehicle
« Last post by DaveR on Today at 06:56:45 AM »Hi ya Swaggers
I thought I'd share something I have witnessed a number of times now that I am in the business of shifting vehicles long haul about the country.
The larger vehicles which are growing in popularity, typically the ones from the USA or even the Iveco type 4wd's etc, many owners are finding out the hard way that due to the size or weight of the vehicle it is NOT covered by the Motoring Associating insurance when needing to be recovered following a brake down. This means very expensive High weight TOW trucks or Super Tilts are needed to move the vehicles when broken down.
There is a Truck Driver insurance for for us guys, like the RACQ etc, called Tuck Assist, if you own such a vehicle, or are looking into it, you should check this out this type of insurance, and confirm what existing insurance will cover.
I recently came across a sweet Japanese 4wd which had the chassis extension and extra axel which the Motoring association rejected due to the tilt tray being sent to recover a standard 4wd arrived to find it aint standard no more.....
I watched a 3 axle American Ute with a Bushmaster van go onto the Hook behind a heavy vehicle tow truck the other day. That journey of about 80 k was going to cost the best part of $1,500.
So guys, something to consider if looking to buy a big vehicle.
I thought I'd share something I have witnessed a number of times now that I am in the business of shifting vehicles long haul about the country.
The larger vehicles which are growing in popularity, typically the ones from the USA or even the Iveco type 4wd's etc, many owners are finding out the hard way that due to the size or weight of the vehicle it is NOT covered by the Motoring Associating insurance when needing to be recovered following a brake down. This means very expensive High weight TOW trucks or Super Tilts are needed to move the vehicles when broken down.
There is a Truck Driver insurance for for us guys, like the RACQ etc, called Tuck Assist, if you own such a vehicle, or are looking into it, you should check this out this type of insurance, and confirm what existing insurance will cover.
I recently came across a sweet Japanese 4wd which had the chassis extension and extra axel which the Motoring association rejected due to the tilt tray being sent to recover a standard 4wd arrived to find it aint standard no more.....
I watched a 3 axle American Ute with a Bushmaster van go onto the Hook behind a heavy vehicle tow truck the other day. That journey of about 80 k was going to cost the best part of $1,500.
So guys, something to consider if looking to buy a big vehicle.
7
General Discussion / Re: Interesting read on electric cars
« Last post by plusnq on Today at 05:32:18 AM »Also the Hummer is back
https://www.theverge.com/2020/10/20/21525290/hummer-ev-electric-truck-gmc-price-specs-range
https://www.theverge.com/2020/10/20/21525290/hummer-ev-electric-truck-gmc-price-specs-range
8
General Discussion / Re: Interesting read on electric cars
« Last post by DandyD on Today at 04:38:41 AM »I can't remember if anybody has mentioned the Bollinger in this thread...
https://bollingermotors.com/
https://bollingermotors.com/
9
General Discussion / Re: Interesting read on electric cars
« Last post by #jonesy on Today at 04:23:22 AM »"With a retuned Off-Road drive mode in hand, the EQC 4x4² can also tow a trailer, have a roof rack and tent installed, and comes with an inflatable dinghy, ensuring it can truly go remote."
Not sure how a dinghy = remote.
And how far is remote without electricity? The on road version has 434 km range
If you are.going to write an article, then be realistic. I wouldn't even compare it to a LandCruiser, just on size alone. (Although that quote was from Mercedes)
Not sure how a dinghy = remote.
And how far is remote without electricity? The on road version has 434 km range
If you are.going to write an article, then be realistic. I wouldn't even compare it to a LandCruiser, just on size alone. (Although that quote was from Mercedes)
10
General Discussion / Re: JEEPER'S.... Street/Strip Jalopy Build.
« Last post by Jeepers Creepers on Today at 04:01:41 AM »Just a little bit more to ponder Bruce.
We are going to run the smallest turbo we can that will deliver the boost we (Shane) wants.
We want the car to spool up quickly..... not sit there all day trying to get itself wound up.
We will be on the trans brake for less time that way. (The box gets hot fast doing it)
With the initial impact of power at a sensible level, the box should last really well.
We also won't be racing every weekend either.
Drag Challenge Week (5 days back to back) and Drag Challenge Weekend (3 days back to back) are our main events.
I may do the odd Nostalgia Meeting, once a year.
I will do the Winternationals and run in Super Sedan as SS/BB class.
The rest of the time, it will just do street duties with a simple 350hp tune in it.
With the Fleetwood and the Zephyr to choose from, the mileage won't be excessive.
In comparison, when I drove the 34 Ford, being a blown set up, the initial step of the throttle was brutal.
You can't leave the line softly in that style of car/engine and believe me when I say..... you get the fukk outta there quickly.
Having said all that, even in the 34, I would pre stage on the footbrake and always try to stage first.
I had a great knack for bumping into full stage on the brake, hit the trans brake button and pick up the throttle to 4,000 rpm.
This way, we were making boost and ready to roll.
The first second is the hardest, getting a good clean launch and getting focused on which way you're going.
Any drag car, can go straight, left, right, up or instant wheel spin.
You have sweet fukk all time to react and react smoothly.
This pic will give a fair idea of what happens in a blown application.
We are going to run the smallest turbo we can that will deliver the boost we (Shane) wants.
We want the car to spool up quickly..... not sit there all day trying to get itself wound up.
We will be on the trans brake for less time that way. (The box gets hot fast doing it)
With the initial impact of power at a sensible level, the box should last really well.
We also won't be racing every weekend either.
Drag Challenge Week (5 days back to back) and Drag Challenge Weekend (3 days back to back) are our main events.
I may do the odd Nostalgia Meeting, once a year.
I will do the Winternationals and run in Super Sedan as SS/BB class.
The rest of the time, it will just do street duties with a simple 350hp tune in it.
With the Fleetwood and the Zephyr to choose from, the mileage won't be excessive.
In comparison, when I drove the 34 Ford, being a blown set up, the initial step of the throttle was brutal.
You can't leave the line softly in that style of car/engine and believe me when I say..... you get the fukk outta there quickly.
Having said all that, even in the 34, I would pre stage on the footbrake and always try to stage first.
I had a great knack for bumping into full stage on the brake, hit the trans brake button and pick up the throttle to 4,000 rpm.
This way, we were making boost and ready to roll.
The first second is the hardest, getting a good clean launch and getting focused on which way you're going.
Any drag car, can go straight, left, right, up or instant wheel spin.
You have sweet fukk all time to react and react smoothly.
This pic will give a fair idea of what happens in a blown application.