MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: paceman on August 25, 2015, 09:31:18 AM
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hi guys,
looking to get some ideas on how i could repair the following, without spending a fortune, and possibly be able to do it myself?
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad246/paceman007/other%20stuff/EE973409-0D13-46AC-9ADC-F0DA0D73D4EB_zpsvih4iazh.jpg)
thoughts appreciated...
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Cheap and nasty or good?
Cheap and nasty would be glue some cardboard to rear and then fill with plaster rapid patch filler. May take a few coats then paint.
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Cheap and nasty or good?
Cheap and nasty would be glue some cardboard to rear and then fill with plaster rapid patch filler. May take a few coats then paint.
it's behind the dunny, so it doesn't have to be perfect... :)
it's more to stop ants and other crawlies coming in there...
maybe something like this?
http://www.selleys.com.au/home-improvement/living-room-renovation/repair-a-hole-in-a-plaster-wall/ (http://www.selleys.com.au/home-improvement/living-room-renovation/repair-a-hole-in-a-plaster-wall/)
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Not a big problem, you'll need to remove the tap and make the hole large enough
that you can slip a couple of pieces of plaster board in behind the existing sheet,
on each side of the tap fitting to cover the hole. The pieces need to be bigger than
the hole so that their is overlap, this is called back blocking.
You then use cornice cement to glue the pieces in, ie screw a plaster screw into the
patch piece so that you can hold it, butter the edges of patch with cornice cement
and then insert it through the hole in the wall turn it around and pull it up against
the wall sheet to spread out the cement but leave a couple of mills depth for the cement
that will be used in the next step. If the patch piece is not to big it may just hang there
till the cement dries, if not then you'll need to support it till it does.
Once the back block is dry, cut another piece of plaster board that will just fit in the hole
and glue it in with cornice cement, when dry skim coat the area, you could tape the joins
before skim coating but I have never had any cracking occur for a small area that has
been back blocked.
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Cornice cement will fill that amount no worries. Sand it back put on some topcoat if fussy or just paint. (After priming)
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Put a larger s/s cover plate behind the one that's there.
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Cornice cement will fill that amount no worries. Sand it back put on some topcoat if fussy or just paint. (After priming)
do you mean without taking the tap off? how does it stay in place without a backing piece or fibreglass mesh?
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Yep a reasonably tacky mix will stick maybe need two goes as to thick and it will get cracks. Depends how fussy you wanna be? I have also put a bit of wood through with stud adhesive and pulled it back tight with a screw then filled it. Even if you patch it as all of the suggestions above chances are you will get hair cracks
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Put a larger s/s cover plate behind the one that's there.
didn't think you could get a bigger one?
or are you talking about making my own?
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didn't think you could get a bigger one?
or are you talking about making my own?
you will be able to get from a plumbing supplies or the green hardware a larger cover plate suitable for a 40mm or 50mm pipe ,usually white. You could then put a bit of silicant behind it and centre it over the thread coming out of the wall and then replace the existing cover plate over the top.
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Ants!! Not worth worrying about-
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=sewer+rats+in+toilets&rlz=1C1FLDB_enAU571AU574&espv=2&biw=1024&bih=649&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CBwQsARqFQoTCMC5x6mXw8cCFWIepgodB1cF3g (https://www.google.com.au/search?q=sewer+rats+in+toilets&rlz=1C1FLDB_enAU571AU574&espv=2&biw=1024&bih=649&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CBwQsARqFQoTCMC5x6mXw8cCFWIepgodB1cF3g)
Doesn't your missus keep nagging you to close the lid?
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I just replaced our cistern and ended up with two big holes where the old cistern was bolted to the wall with butterfly bolts. I have just applied some plaster filler into the holes, not too much, just enough to allow me to apply a second amount when dry. When this is dry I will sand it off and paint. Remember not to mound the filler up to much so you don’t have to sand a lot, just a light sanding with fine paper should do. Both holes are just to the side of the new cistern so the filler will not have to be strong and once painted no one will know. ;D Kevin
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Seriously that's typical of gyprock fixers belting a hole in the board with a hammer to get it over the plumbing first fix and the flushers haven't covered for them. It's only cosmetic and the threaded breech should be securely fixed to the wall stud.
Presumably you don't fancy turning the water off and removing the tap for a fix but you can remove the braided hose for easy access and then 2 choices with some bog (thick base coat, cornice adhesive or handyman spakfilla type bog) Shove newspaper in there to back the filler or you can further cut the hole larger in order to insert a rectangular piece of gyprock or scantling in it and turn it into place with a suitable screw handle to glue it the rear and then bog it.
Really depends on what you have in the armoury and newspaper and some handyman spakfilla would be simplest/cheapest. Just remember without soft final sanding filler you don't want to leave hard spakfillas, etc proud of the surface but build up the repair in stages to a smooth level finish that only needs a light finish sand.
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Just grab a small tub of Selleys polyfilla and use that to fill the hole. Easy to sand once it dries, and dries pretty quickly also.
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Car bog works well for the holes my boys put in the gyrock
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If you are not too fussed, you could get a piece of plastic like an ice cream container lid, cut your own overall shape and trim a hole in the middle the size of the existing cover plate. Slit one side so it flexes over the pipe, and glue the sucker on.
No plastering, and if you use a lid from a vanilla flavoured product you won't even need to paint it.