Post by: dazzler on May 15, 2015, 01:41:11 PM
I want to put a rail between these two posts on each side of the deck (can't see the other posts in pic)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/14/a6b9fedd8a6556bf8d3c9bd88cfe99c8.jpg)
The rail is 90x45 so I need a trench cut into the side of the post about 50mm down and set so it sits out. So the trench or rebate will be about 50mm deep.
How would you do it so it's an interference fit and not sloppy?
I've got the following;
Routers, circular saw, levels, squares, string lines, laser levels. I also need to do the same across three posts to the right of the verandah post.
What ya reckon.
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Post by: GGV8Cruza on May 15, 2015, 01:59:52 PM
GG
Post by: dazzler on May 15, 2015, 02:18:43 PM
Post by: Bird on May 15, 2015, 02:27:07 PM
It's the getting the two outside cuts spot on. I suck at that bitremove posts and send to GG... he will return cut and ready to go...
Post by: GGV8Cruza on May 15, 2015, 02:30:48 PM
It's the getting the two outside cuts spot on. I suck at that bit
Measure from the cut side of the blade (edge of tooth) of your saw to the edge of the baseplate. Clamp a piece of timber to the post the same distance away. Run your saw along the block and you should have a straight cut. Just be careful you measure the right side of the blade when setting it up and have the saw unplugged as you will need to slide the guard open.
GG
Post by: Footy Shorts Shane on May 15, 2015, 02:35:35 PM
(The Chippy's of the forum might have a much better way of doing it, but that's how a mechanic would do it >:D )
Edit, GG beat me to it. Likes like he's going to make a great mechanic some day ;D
Post by: prodigyrf on May 15, 2015, 02:43:57 PM
Post by: prodigyrf on May 15, 2015, 02:49:38 PM
Post by: Rumpig on May 15, 2015, 05:43:30 PM
Post by: dazzler on May 15, 2015, 06:39:29 PM
Post by: Moggy on May 15, 2015, 06:45:21 PM
Post by: Moggy on May 15, 2015, 06:54:46 PM
Post by: GGV8Cruza on May 15, 2015, 07:01:05 PM
Seriously though if those posts are structural i wouldn't be cutting a trench any deeper than 15mm. You'll substantially weaken the post otherwise
Probably too late, the bottom looks already to have been scarf jointed
GG
Post by: Rumpig on May 15, 2015, 07:06:57 PM
Seriously though if those posts are structural i wouldn't be cutting a trench any deeper than 15mm. You'll substantially weaken the post otherwiseX2 on this.... no need to go 50mm deep, 10mm - 15mm will be plenty to hold that handrail in position with a few bullet head nails skewed in through the bottom of it.
Post by: prodigyrf on May 15, 2015, 07:08:01 PM
Seriously though if those posts are structural i wouldn't be cutting a trench any deeper than 15mm. You'll substantially weaken the post otherwise
Tiled roof you might check the dead load specs but if it's a sheet roof no worries as the posts are largely holding the roof down, like holding down a large umbrella as the wind hitting the walls of the porch deflect upwards and want to lift the roof off.
Post by: dales133 on May 15, 2015, 08:25:00 PM
Sounds like you have a bit of knowledge but a mortise and tennon style joint if that's what your proposing is a whole joiners aprentiship worth of tools and techniques.
Rout out a slot made with a jig
Post by: Rumpig on May 15, 2015, 09:08:57 PM
I wouldn't piss about either beg borrow steal or hire a router.if all he is doing is housing the rail into the post, it's as simple as a few saw cuts and clean up with a chisel, no need for fancy joints. A sharp saw blade and sharp chisel is a must though, a blunt saw blade will splinter the timber
Sounds like you have a bit of knowledge but a mortise and tennon style joint if that's what your proposing is a whole joiners aprentiship worth of tools and techniques.
Rout out a slot made with a jig
Post by: dales133 on May 15, 2015, 09:11:40 PM
Post by: dazzler on May 15, 2015, 09:50:00 PM
Different to this sort of stuff of course
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Post by: kylarama on May 15, 2015, 10:11:36 PM
I wouldn't piss about either beg borrow steal or hire a router.
Sounds like you have a bit of knowledge but a mortise and tennon style joint if that's what your proposing is a whole joiners aprentiship worth of tools and techniques.
Rout out a slot made with a jig
If we're talking a simple housing joint like this that others have mentioned.
(http://www.jointselection.com/uploads/2/5/4/1/25411498/1389314085.jpg)
Then a circ saw and sharp chisel wins hands down.
Post by: Barry G on May 15, 2015, 11:23:18 PM
With a parallel router bit and a template (6mm ply is ideal) sized to allow you to run the router base against the top and bottom edges, you can replicate the correct cut width as many times as you need to, quickly and easily.
Just need to take a bit of time getting the template precisely right first.
Here is an example of how to determine the width of the opening in the template:
Diameter of base; 200mm (radius 100mm)
Diameter of bit 30mm
Distance between edge of base and edge of bit 100-15=85mm
Width of timber rail 45mm
Distance between top and bottom edges of template:
85 + 45 + 85 = 215mm
Post by: kylarama on May 16, 2015, 12:15:30 AM
As for precision. A tool be it hand or power, will only ever be as precise as the operator.
Would you trust a 'speed square' as the saw guide? If so then I can mark 100mm up from the top cut as thats the distance from the blade to the edge of the baseplate. Then mark down 42mm and go again which should give me 42mm + blade thickness = 45mm.?
So long as the square is long enough to comfortably run the saw along the edge and you can clamp it.
If you make furniture then this should be a doodle for you. Worst case, it's a painted surface so you can neaten it up with a tube or 2 of 'No More Skills' AKA No More Gaps...
Post by: Barry G on May 16, 2015, 08:09:39 AM
Granted, ultimately accuracy always relies on the skill and care of the operator. However, whatever the skill level, a router with straight bit and template will always be able to be adjusted to a greater degree of accuracy than can a circular saw. For starters, there is inevitably a degree of movement in a circular saw blade that is not present in a router bit.
Post by: Rumpig on May 16, 2015, 08:27:54 AM
Yes a router jig is better for repetition work, but we're only talking about 4 posts in Dazzler's case. This is a very basic joint than can be done in a matter of minutes by any competent carpenter or joiner with nothing more than a jack saw and chisel. Anyone with half reasonable wood skills would be finished and sucking stubbies admiring their chisel/saw handy work quicker than making a jig.That is all i'd do at work, and have done for over 20 years now as the timber is usually a different size, even though it's supposed to all be machined the same size. Making a jig and adjusting the depth of the router all the time takes time to do, just set the saw at one depth and do multiple cuts close together, then lever the cuts side ways and break most of the timber out, then clean up the base of housing and job done.
As for precision. A tool be it hand or power, will only ever be as precise as the operator.
So long as the square is long enough to comfortably run the saw along the edge and you can clamp it.If he uses a sharp 7 1/4 power saw then one of these squares in this link
If you make furniture then this should be a doodle for you. Worst case, it's a painted surface so you can neaten it up with a tube or 2 of 'No More Skills' AKA No More Gaps...
https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/general-hand-tools/johnson-structo-angle-square (https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/general-hand-tools/johnson-structo-angle-square) is all he should need, just need to make sure you don't move it whilst cutting (i usually freehand my cuts though, and once again i'll say a sharp saw makes the differance in being able to do this neatly or not). It's ok for me to say this i guess as i use a power saw daily, so for a novice i'd suggest clamping (or even tack nailing or screwing..but you'll have to patch the holes later) something like a bit of timber or even a square in place to run the saw along. If you don't want to damage the paint then put a block of timber on both sides of the post, as you could damage the paint where the clamp hits the post on the other side when it does up.
Post by: Footy Shorts Shane on May 16, 2015, 08:40:08 AM
Post by: dazzler on May 16, 2015, 10:04:32 AM
Just hurry up and do it, before this thread ends up in the electrical section.PMSL!
After lunch. Just absorbing some toxins from last night.
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Post by: glenm64 on May 16, 2015, 11:36:58 AM
Slip with a circular and it can totally stuff up the job.
Just my 2 bobs.
Post by: richee on May 16, 2015, 11:48:03 AM
Slip with a circular and it can totally stuff up your man bits!.
Fixed!
Post by: dazzler on May 16, 2015, 03:31:57 PM
Still got to make some shavings.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/6d66adbfed240f9fe27d4cc4301352f7.jpg)
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Post by: Barry G on May 16, 2015, 05:04:14 PM
A lovely looking low angle plane. ????
Gotta love hand tools, the right hand tool can do almost any job better than the powered 'make do', provided the user knows how to use it.
Post by: scarpsD40 on May 16, 2015, 05:18:13 PM
If you mess it up a bit, builders bog is the forgiving tool.
Post by: dales133 on May 16, 2015, 05:28:23 PM
Post by: dazzler on May 16, 2015, 06:45:22 PM
I can smell those shavings from here!
A lovely looking low angle plane. ????
Gotta love hand tools, the right hand tool can do almost any job better than the powered 'make do', provided the user knows how to use it.
Nothin like a shaving.
On the money. lie Nielsen low angle smoother. Would love to learn more hand tool stuff. My wife calls my woodwork YouTube viewing as "weirdo pawn".
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Post by: Rumpig on May 16, 2015, 06:49:28 PM
My wife calls my woodwork YouTube viewing as "weirdo pawn".try taking your hands out of your pockets whilst you're watching it next time then ;) ;D ;D
Post by: kylarama on May 16, 2015, 06:55:31 PM
try taking your hands out of your pockets whilst you're watching it next time then ;) ;D ;D
Is that classed as 'wood turning'...
Post by: Rumpig on May 16, 2015, 07:06:50 PM
Is that classed as 'wood turning'...;D ;D ;D
Post by: dazzler on May 16, 2015, 08:22:30 PM
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Post by: D4D on May 16, 2015, 08:29:42 PM
How good are you with a chainsaw? Should take 1/4 of the time..................
Got to love a good plunge cut :)
Post by: Snapman007 on May 16, 2015, 09:38:15 PM
Almost snuck out and got grabbed by the earlobe, dragged back inside and told clearly to finish laying the tas oak floorboards in the new entry. It rained outside anyway so all good
Still got to make some shavings.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/6d66adbfed240f9fe27d4cc4301352f7.jpg)
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Mirror finish on blades is sexy.
Im guessing I'm not the only one looking at bridge city instead of porn