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General => General Discussion => Topic started by: maverick01 on August 18, 2014, 03:13:48 PM
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I'm currently having issues with our main computer and a laptop. Please don't ask me too much as I'm not computer savy.
So my question is, is there a computer guru on here or someone you use and would recommend to come around to fix our computers.
We are located on the southside of Brisbane.
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Hi maverick01
What is happening? Might be able to help depending on what is the problem.
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We are running windows 7 and it won't allow us to log onto the internet. The wife has done a complete back date and cleaned out what she can but unfortunately it still doing the same thing.
Also both computers are running really slow, both computers are less than 2year old
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PM sent
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Gidday Maverick and Noel
I know just a bit about computers (about 40 years experience ... ), but am in Melbourne ATM. I will be in Brissy in a couple of weeks, staying at Bellbowrie.
In the mean time, if I can be of any help, please feel free to ask. My longest distance "support" was to talk someone through a complete, major re-build of a PC after her son ran out of knowledge (fairly quickly ... ). She lives in the Mid-West in the USA ... It took some doing! A successful outcome though.
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Thanks mate,
I'm sure between yourself and noel. The pair of you should be able to fix it whether that being properly or with a 4 pound hammer
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Gidday Maverick and Noel
I know just a bit about computers (about 40 years experience ... )
About the same amount as me. Do it for a living unfortunately. Should have the case under control soonish. New ticket opened......
All imperial hammers have been upgraded to metric. Now 1.84Kg. Really too small to fix terminal issues.
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If i have a problem with my comp i just call it "FRED"..... then i feel better.... ;D
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Thanks mate,
I'm sure between yourself and noel. The pair of you should be able to fix it whether that being properly or with a 4 pound hammer
i know nothing about computers, and am a chippy, so can help with bigger hammer if you need it ;D ;D
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Gidday Noel
About the same amount as me. Do it for a living unfortunately. Should have the case under control soonish. New ticket opened......
All imperial hammers have been upgraded to metric. Now 1.84Kg. Really too small to fix terminal issues.
I have now gracefully retired. Which means that I now spend much of my time attending to the computer problems of family, friends, ...
I am sure that you will sort Mav's problem out for him. I hate the boot system that MS now use. I prefer to be able to dig when necessary; not have both hands tied behind one's back, and a blindfold on - too much like working on Apples for my liking! I have only ever worked on Apples for friends, and when Apple couldn't fix the problem/s ...
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I know it's not my thread, but where is the cheapest place to buy word for a win7 device ( laptop )..
Many thanks !
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Pirate bay ;)
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Doesn't matter if it's not your thread mate. It's still related
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If you're a student or work in education... ItsNotCheating (http://www.microsoft.com/student/discounts/itsnotcheating/terms.aspx) gets you office for about $75.
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If you're a student or work in education... ItsNotCheating (http://www.microsoft.com/student/discounts/itsnotcheating/terms.aspx) gets you office for about $75.
Ha ha, can I be a student at 55 yrs old ?? ;D
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iam 65 and still learning ;D
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I know it's not my thread, but where is the cheapest place to buy word for a win7 device ( laptop )..
Many thanks !
Hi Gronk,
Depends on how complex and what you are using it for:
Other options include:
Google docs (can read and edit, different file type when saved)
Libre office
If just viewing you can use the reader.
Otherwise the student version is the cheapest legal version, or if a limited time use you have the trials.
Cheers
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Open Office.
Its free.
Need to change the default file type to ".doc", etc.
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I'm currently having issues with our main computer and a laptop. Please don't ask me too much as I'm not computer savy.
So my question is, is there a computer guru on here or someone you use and would recommend to come around to fix our computers.
We are located on the southside of Brisbane.
Probably stating the obvious but have you tried duct tape and/or wd40????
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So taking all the commentary out of you issue.
Try disabling your virus scanning software for a moment and then try. Some of them will do that, McAfee is one.
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If I can jump in on the topic, I recently had to upgrade the OS on my 5.5yr old PC from good old XP and Windows 7 was installed by the local PC store. Now the internet is REALLY slow, but before I race back to them is there anything I can look at beforehand, bearing in mind that I too am a complete computer novice ie I use them but that's it. In theory the PC should be running well as the hard drive has had a complete wipe (& specs of hardware exceed those required to run Win7) and I have only restored about a quarter of the photos and music from my external drive that was previously on it. It worked perfectly well before, and as always the new tech is causing issues.
Any advice appreciated,
Nigel
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try turning it off for 30 seconds then back on -- thats what i always get told to do when i have issues - never fixed the problem but thought i would offer advise that was offered to me
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try turning it off for 30 seconds then back on -- thats what i always get told to do when i have issues - never fixed the problem but thought i would offer advise that was offered to me
PMSL ;D ;D ;D
...oh, hang on no the problem isnt fixed. Bugger, another old wives tale solution confined to the myth bin.
If I try this a dozen times in succession will it improve my chances of success?
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If I can jump in on the topic, I recently had to upgrade the OS on my 5.5yr old PC from good old XP and Windows 7 was installed by the local PC store. Now the internet is REALLY slow, but before I race back to them is there anything I can look at beforehand, bearing in mind that I too am a complete computer novice ie I use them but that's it. In theory the PC should be running well as the hard drive has had a complete wipe (& specs of hardware exceed those required to run Win7) and I have only restored about a quarter of the photos and music from my external drive that was previously on it. It worked perfectly well before, and as always the new tech is causing issues.
Any advice appreciated,
Nigel
Download and run the (free) UltraDefrag utility for the OS/CPU and byte length you are running. It works on XP, Vista, 7 and 8, and is infinitely superior to the bare native defragger.
After the defrag, run FULL OPTIMISE. This will take hours to run. Should speed your PC up a great deall. All that new OS install and copying back of files means that your HDD is fragmented to buggery. That slows it down to a crawl ...
Other things need to be set up properly, but I'm under the pump ATM. Will try to remember to get back to you later this morning.
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Download and run the (free) UltraDefrag utility for the OS/CPU and byte length you are running. It works on XP, Vista, 7 and 8, and is infinitely superior to the bare native defragger.
After the defrag, run FULL OPTIMISE. This will take hours to run. Should speed your PC up a great deall. All that new OS install and copying back of files means that your HDD is fragmented to buggery. That slows it down to a crawl ...
Other things need to be set up properly, but I'm under the pump ATM. Will try to remember to get back to you later this morning.
Cheers Ratbag, I will look at this tonight when I get home and let you know over the next day or two of any progress.
Nigel :cheers:
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G'day again Nigel
A couple of things.
Download "Classic Shell", which will re-instate 'normal' Windows menus in both the OS and in most programs. It's free and available here:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/classicshell/ (http://sourceforge.net/projects/classicshell/)
UltraDefrag is free and available here (DON'T use the Beta version ... ):
http://ultradefrag.sourceforge.net/en/index.html (http://ultradefrag.sourceforge.net/en/index.html)
Go into Control Panel and set the virtual memory file to the same minimum and maximum size. If you have 4 GB of RAM, set it to 4096 MB in each case; if 8 GB RAM, set it to 8192 GB in each case. Before doing this, it may be necessary to switch off the paging file altogether. Restart the computer with "no" paging file (Windows will create a temporary one ... ). Run the defragger and then do a full optimise. Reboot the computer. Reset the paging file size as above. Reboot the computer. Windows is flaming good at fragmenting its own paging file, and should never be allowed to manage it. If it is (the default setting ... ), it will slow the computer down dramatically.
While you are there, disable all the twee GUI stuff by selecting "Optimise for best performance". You will notice that making this selection unticks every single box in the dialog box ... .
This also makes the computer usable ... ;).
It astounds me that Microsoft haven't worked out how to set up the OS defaults properly after 20+ years ...
A Windows 8.1 PC I was configuring a month or so ago still has all the wrong default settings ...
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Go into Control Panel and set the virtual memory file to the same minimum and maximum size. If you have 4 GB of RAM, set it to 4096 MB in each case; if 8 GB RAM, set it to 8192 GB in each case. Before doing this, it may be necessary to switch off the paging file altogether. Restart the computer with "no" paging file (Windows will create a temporary one ... ). Run the defragger and then do a full optimise. Reboot the computer. Reset the paging file size as above. Reboot the computer. Windows is flaming good at fragmenting its own paging file, and should never be allowed to manage it. If it is (the default setting ... ), it will slow the computer down dramatically.
While you are there, disable all the twee GUI stuff by selecting "Optimise for best performance". You will notice that making this selection unticks every single box in the dialog box ... .
This also makes the computer usable ... ;).
I need to do some work on mine as well, but these instructions mean nothing to a computer virgin !! :D
In control panel, where do you find virtual memory file ??
Same as where do you find the paging file....or how do you do a full optimise...and disabling the twee GUI ?????
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Gidday Gronk
Ha ha, can I be a student at 55 yrs old ?? ;D
We have full versions of Adobe CS Premium CS5 and CS6 at student prices (10% of RRP) because my SWMBO is a student. She's currently doing a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree, and she's a lot older than 55 y.o. (as am I ... ). Very useful ... :).
My brother has CS6 because a close relative is a teacher, and she had no use for it at all, but qualified to purchase it ... :).
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G'day again Gronk
I need to do some work on mine as well, but these instructions mean nothing to a computer virgin !! :D
In control panel, where do you find virtual memory file ??
Same as where do you find the paging file....or how do you do a full optimise...and disabling the twee GUI ??? ??
I'm sorry, but I am far too tired tonight to talk a complete neophyte through it right now ...
Currently it looks as if I have some serious work to do tomorrow, but do keep reminding me ... ;).
Anyone can do these things, it just takes more complete instructions for some than for others 8) .
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Anyone can do these things, it just takes more complete instructions for some than for others 8) .
Yeh mate, I know how to get into control panel, just don't know my way around enough to find the different settings ??...there's approx 30 different folders.....??
The open office idea was great thanks......I only need it to do resumes ...yeh, got to look for a job soon !!
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hey gronk
youtube is full of nifty videos on how to do stuff
heres how to configure the pagefile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWCVhk5gTps (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWCVhk5gTps)
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Gidday Justin
Thanks for that link. Saves me a lot of work ...
The U-Tube video is correct right up until he says "the maximum size should be twice the minimum size". This is wrong, as it allows Windows to fragment pagefile.sys into thousands of free extents (fragments). This slows the computer down to a snail's pace ...
Defragment the hard disk before changing the virtual memory file (this file is called pagefile.sys). Preferably follow the procedure I outlined above, combining it with the detailed explanation of how to get there in the U-Tube video. On the way past (just before you get to the virtual memory file size setting dialog), tick the box that says "enable best performance" ;) - this deletes all the twee crap out of the user interface. Every bit of this takes processing power away from what you bought the computer to do!
Set the minimum and maximum to the same size. As a rule of thumb, I start by setting these figures to the same size as the physical RAM in the PC - i.e. 2 GB RAM, set the virtual memory size at 2048 MB (2 GB); 4 GB, set to 4096 MB; 8 GB, set to 8192 MB, etc.
That way the pagefile.sys file can never become fragmented. Every version of Windows since NT4.0 has had the capability to expand the Pagefile as necessary. The HUGE difference is that when the computer is re-booted, this temporary extension to the paging file is deleted (it will be as fragmented as all get out), and the paging file will once again be completely unfragmented.
Never, NEVER allow Windows to manage any part of its own swap file (= paging file, virtual memory file, pagefile.sys, etc). It is hopeless at doing it, to say the least.
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If I can jump in on the topic, I recently had to upgrade the OS on my 5.5yr old PC from good old XP and Windows 7 was installed by the local PC store. Now the internet is REALLY slow, but before I race back to them is there anything I can look at beforehand, bearing in mind that I too am a complete computer novice ie I use them but that's it. In theory the PC should be running well as the hard drive has had a complete wipe (& specs of hardware exceed those required to run Win7) and I have only restored about a quarter of the photos and music from my external drive that was previously on it. It worked perfectly well before, and as always the new tech is causing issues.
Any advice appreciated,
Nigel
Hey Nigel, no offence but a 5.5yr old PC probably isn't perfect for Windows7 and more than likely if feeling really slow because of graphic rendering issues. You can really speed up rendering by turning off some of Windows fancy graphics features
Goto Control Panel/ System and Security/ System and click the Advanced system settings link. Select the Settings button under Performance and you can change everything from window animations to font smoothing. By default, Windows will choose the settings that it thinks are best for your computer but there is a radio button you can choose for "best performance".
Once you've changed to "best performance" it's going to make windows look very plain but it should run pretty quickly. If you don't like the plain look you can go back in and turn on some of the option by clicking the "custom" option and testing what works for you.
If you're not happy with the outcome swap back to the "let windows decide" option, no harm, no foul.
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Hey Nigel, no offence but a 5.5yr old PC probably isn't perfect for Windows7 and more than likely if feeling really slow because of graphic rendering issues. You can really speed up rendering by turning off some of Windows fancy graphics features
Goto Control Panel/ System and Security/ System and click the Advanced system settings link. Select the Settings button under Performance and you can change everything from window animations to font smoothing. By default, Windows will choose the settings that it thinks are best for your computer but there is a radio button you can choose for "best performance".
Once you've changed to "best performance" it's going to make windows look very plain but it should run pretty quickly. If you don't like the plain look you can go back in and turn on some of the option by clicking the "custom" option and testing what works for you.
If you're not happy with the outcome swap back to the "let windows decide" option, no harm, no foul.
Thanks for the tips, already done this and now letting the defrag program do its optimise thing overnight as per Ratbag's advice (it does take aeons).
I realise the PC is getting on, but $160 for 7 was still a lot cheaper than a new system, albeit I had to also replace the power supply unit @ $90 also. The PC shop asked for the specs and said it will work, maybe they forgot to say how well!! Its still better than the retarded OS it came with when new (no prizes for guessing). XP was a retrograde install which proved adequate until the support cut off. I still prefer 7 to 8.1 etc that I use at work.
Incidentally, and moving further afield, I assume I should ignore the driver update alerts that bob up every time I download a file like defrag? They look like they are trying to get me to buy something by wording the ads as though I desperately need updated drivers.
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My laptop's 10 y.o.
Pentium mobile 1.5 GHz (single core ... ), 2 GB RAM, 320 GB HDD.
It loads PS6 PS5 in 17.5 seconds after being rebooted.
My workstation loads PS6 in around 23 seconds; and my wife's w/s loads PS5 in around 20 seconds. All those times are from start to when the menu system becomes active. Both w/s are Core2 Duo CPUs. Mine is clocking at 2.13 GHz with 4 GB RAM (DDR2), hers at 2.40 GHz with 2 GB RAM (DDR3 - much faster). Both w/s and the laptop are running XP Pro. It is my experience that Win7 Pro is as fast, or nearly as fast, on the same hardware as XP Pro, if one turns off all the frippery, and sets the PC up correctly.
I have come across a few PCs running i7 CPUs, 8 GB fast RAM, and SSD drives that take 26 seconds to load LR4 or PSE ...
One of my clients is running five PCs, 4 are Core2 Duo based. They are running Win7 Pro, and run it as fast as XP Pro. All except the laptop are running 32 bit OS.
Proper setup and proper maintenance is everything ... Just IMAO, of course.
From my Batphone
[substantially edited ... RB]
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Nigel, if you're running that Defrag app on an SSD drive and it's working that hard you're doing some permanent damage and I recommend you cancel it. Yep, don't click on the driver update dialog, better still avoid the sites that throw these up.
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Hey Nigel, no offence but a 5.5yr old PC probably isn't perfect for Windows7 and more than likely if feeling really slow because of graphic rendering issues. You can really speed up rendering by turning off some of Windows fancy graphics features
My i7 920 came out in 2009. It is getting long in the tooth now, but it still beats a lot of new processors. The Core 2 series shouldn't have any trouble with Win 7 or even 8.1. Of course that isn't a low end 5 year old, and integrated GPU as well as older processor is going to be a struggle.
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My i7 920 came out in 2009. It is getting long in the tooth now, but it still beats a lot of new processors. The Core 2 series shouldn't have any trouble with Win 7 or even 8.1. Of course that isn't a low end 5 year old, and integrated GPU as well as older processor is going to be a struggle.
Yeah, I was thinking that the average pc of the day was something like a core 2 with 2GB of ram but I could be wrong - I know this will run it but aero does make'm feel sluggish.
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Yeah, I was thinking that the average pc of the day was something like a core 2 with 2GB of ram but I could be wrong - I know this will run it but aero does make'm feel sluggish.
No more so than Vista was, urgh. 2GB is problematic, but anything with a Core2 and 4GB+ isn't really sluggish with it.
It is faster with it off, but isn't bad. My old laptop is Core 2 and 4GB runs it easy with most of the pretties on.
Dad is using it. I have a shiny i7 4500u based one :D
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Gidday Nigel
Thanks for the tips, already done this and now letting the defrag program do its optimise thing overnight as per Ratbag's advice (it does take aeons).
I realise the PC is getting on, but $160 for 7 was still a lot cheaper than a new system, albeit I had to also replace the power supply unit @ $90 also. The PC shop asked for the specs and said it will work, maybe they forgot to say how well!! Its still better than the retarded OS it came with when new (no prizes for guessing). XP was a retrograde install which proved adequate until the support cut off. I still prefer 7 to 8.1 etc that I use at work.
Let me know how it works out please, mate.
Incidentally, and moving further afield, I assume I should ignore the driver update alerts that bob up every time I download a file like defrag? They look like they are trying to get me to buy something by wording the ads as though I desperately need updated drivers.
Your assumption is completely and utterly correct. Some of those things are so full of pox-ware that they can completely trash your computer!
And Vista was a complete and utter dog of an OS. I have one client running Vista Enterprise, and it's a hopeless task trying to keep it running properly. Garbage memory management (why "fix" something that wasn't broken?), just for starters ...
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Ok Ratbag, been mucking around with the internet etc and so far there is a noticeable speed improvement :cup:
Checked the virtual memory settings and they were at double the RAM ie set at 8192MB when my ram is 4GB, so changed them as per your instructions.
Seems to be all good.
Now another question: I have recently bought a new modem/router combo (TP Link) and it intermittently drops out and needs re-starting. Any suggestions why this should be so? When I was with Telstra using their modem and a separate Belkin router it happened regularly, about every 3 days, then when I switched to iinet using their modem with the Belkin it was perfect. Now I have switched to Telechoice and bought the TP-Link as its not locked to any comm's company and I'm having problems again.
Thanks for the help so far ratbag, just wish I could repay the favour.
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Gidday Nigel
Ok Ratbag, been mucking around with the internet etc and so far there is a noticeable speed improvement :cup:
Checked the virtual memory settings and they were at double the RAM ie set at 8192MB when my ram is 4GB, so changed them as per your instructions.
Seems to be all good.
Very good to hear, mate.
Don't run OPTIMISE very much. Once every 3-6 months is fine. If you aren't making major changes to your computer often, then 6-9 months.
I run DEFRAG on all our computers about once a week. Sometimes more often if a major update; upload a swag of images; that sort of thing.
It is specially important to DEFRAG your SYSTEM partition (or HDD) regularly. At least weekly. This takes almost no time if done regularly.
Now another question: I have recently bought a new modem/router combo (TP Link) and it intermittently drops out and needs re-starting. Any suggestions why this should be so? When I was with Telstra using their modem and a separate Belkin router it happened regularly, about every 3 days, then when I switched to iinet using their modem with the Belkin it was perfect. Now I have switched to Telechoice and bought the TP-Link as its not locked to any comm's company and I'm having problems again.
Basically, I use Telstra. Not that I haven't had some monumental problems with some services from time to time, but at least they try to make good (They have refunded us well over $2,500 in the last 5 years due to these problems). Their services also work pretty much everywhere it's possible for them to work.
We have Cable v3 here (Ultimate Cable; Cable Extreme; whatever ... ), and get a measured download speed of 113 Mbps, upload (throttled) of 2.54 Mbps.
A good friend was paying for ADSL2 with Optus and complained about his 2.5 Mbps download speed. They informed him that this was normal! Thieving mongrels, that's less than half the speed one gets with ADSL1!!. One of the advantages of being old(er ... ) is that one tends to either know people, or know who to talk to. He rang a friend in Sydney who works for Optus, and lo and behold, his ADSL speed miraculously increased to 13.5 Mbps download ...
As for your problem. Check the wall socket, the cable modem/ADSL modem phone line socket and try a different Ethernet cable.
A modem/router is just another (dedicated) computer. When you reboot it, turn the power off for a timed 20 seconds. It is probably a problem with your modem/router, but it can be a dodgy Ethernet cable or connection just as easily.
Some modem/routers have a very limited NAT table size (Network Address Translation). There is no way around a modem/router that is limited in this way other than to reboot it occasionally. The reboot clears the NAT, which is what would most likely be caused the flaky connection. The NAT table has to hold the IP addresses of things like DNS servers (Domain Name Server), and DHCP servers (Dynamic Host Protocol Protocol), as well as the IP addresses of any site you visit.
Our modem/router wireless acts up occasionally (about every 3-4 weeks). This has both our phones and my laptop connected to it. All the rest of the computers and other devices on our network are connected Gigabit Ethernet through three or so gigabit switches.
Thanks for the help so far ratbag, just wish I could repay the favour.
Mate, no worries. I am sure that you can repay someone else ... It's called a "Chinese obligation" - a debt that can never be repaid to the creditor ... I have heaps of them that I owe, so I'm repaying them by helping you ... And it's my pleasure to be able to do so, and actually make a positive difference ... :).
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Telstra (Netgear rebranded as Telstra) cable modems are notorious for NAT problems. The main reason is the table is too small as Ratbag said, fills up and then either reboots or crashes and locks up.
I usually recommend using the Telstra modem in bridged mode and putting a good router behind it. There are settings in it to turn off NAT which makes it a modem only. The wireless in these are also particularly flaky as well.
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Interesting topic as my desktop is still playing up after a full re-install of Windows 7.
Is there a maximum life span for an external hard drive? It seems that when I connect my 1TB WD it is slow to open or scans it before opening.
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With the paging file....I have 8Gb of ram......but only 3.49Gb usable.....what do I set the paging file to ??
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Interesting topic as my desktop is still playing up after a full re-install of Windows 7.
Is there a maximum life span for an external hard drive? It seems that when I connect my 1TB WD it is slow to open or scans it before opening.
What connection are you using???
USB 1 / 2 / 3 etc... ????
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What connection are you using???
USB 1 / 2 / 3 etc... ????
It has USB 2.
Just checked my files, I bought it on 27/02/2009 so it is 5.5 years old. A 1TB WD for $185.00
Maybe it is time for a new one.
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Interesting topic as my desktop is still playing up after a full re-install of Windows 7.
Is there a maximum life span for an external hard drive? It seems that when I connect my 1TB WD it is slow to open or scans it before opening.
When you say "scans it", I assume that you don't mean your antivirus program ... ?
The symptoms you are describing strongly suggest a bad bit. This needs to be locked out by the OS by adding the block of sectors that contains the bad bit are added to the Bad Block Table stored on the HDD. Each block contains 8 sectors of 512 bytes each, so is 4,096 byes in total (assuming that the drive is formatted with NTFS using the default cluster size of 4K bytes/cluster = "block" ). If the HDD is not formatted with NTFS, I strongly urge you to convert it to NTFS, UNLESS it is also used on a Apple computer. Apples can read NTFS disks, but cannot write to them ... IDE cannot perform hot sector re-mapping as SCSI drives can, therefore the need to run CHKDSK on the drive. This is worth doing about once a year, even if there are no apparent problems with a particular HDD.
Close all programs that might be accessing the external HDD, specially Windows Explorer ...
Perform a full disk check using CHKDSK.EXE ("Check disk for errors"). Make certain that the two optional boxes "Automatically fix file system errors" and "Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors" are ticked.
On a 1 TB drive, this will take quite a while.
After doing the CHKDSK, perform a defrag followed by a full optimise as described upthread.
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With the paging file....I have 8Gb of ram......but only 3.49Gb usable.....what do I set the paging file to ??
Minimum 8 GB; Maximum 8 GB.
It may be necessary to follow the procedure outlined above to delete your existing paging file, reboot, defrag the drive, reboot, reinstate your new size paging file.
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Thanks.
With scanning I mean that Windows Explorer opens, sees the drive, and then it takes a time to open. Then after I have scrolled through some folders, it Windows Explorer greys out and there appears a green running bar through the file directory on top.
I tried the check yesterday when the message came up.
It started but it failed after a while.
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It has USB 2.
Just checked my files, I bought it on 27/02/2009 so it is 5.5 years old. A 1TB WD for $185.00
Maybe it is time for a new one.
I have HDDs that are 20 years old, and still work perfectly ...
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Thanks.
With scanning I mean that Windows Explorer opens, sees the drive, and then it takes a time to open. Then after I have scrolled through some folders, it Windows Explorer greys out and there appears a green running bar through the file directory on top.
I tried the check yesterday when the message came up.
It started but it failed after a while.
Run a full CHKDSK as described a few minutes ago.
By default, Windows skips the file system check and the surface scan of both used and free space ... DOH!
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Will do tonight when I am at home.
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No joy.
When get into properties from the external hard drive and run the test (both checked), after a while it tells me that it can't do it because it is in use????
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No joy.
When get into properties from the external hard drive and run the test (both checked), after a while it tells me that it can't do it because it is in use? ???
Some program is holding the external HDD open if that is happening. Make sure that all programs are closed.
From My Computer, do NOT left click on the target HDD (this opens it, and holds it open ... I should have said this yesterday, sorry ... ); left click on (say) drive C:, then right click on the target drive, then LC on properties, LC on Check Disk for Errors, LC on Check Now, tick both boxes, proceed. It should then do a full CHKDSK.
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Will try again, thanks.
When trying to unmount, it tells me that it is being used, eventhough all programs are closed.
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^ It may be mounting it as a "fixed" drive.
Make sure that it is configured for quick removal. Then just unplug it.
Wait for about 20 seconds, then plug it back in again. It should now recognise it as removable media.
Some processes in Windows require a HDD to be an 'internal' drive, and the OS switches the drive into this mode.
Once this happens, you can no longer use Safely Remove Hardware to remove it, but you can often use the EJECT command in the Win Explorer context menu to eject it, just so long as you don't have that drive open in WE ... ;). LC on another drive in the left hand pane to open it (shows the contents of the other drive in the RH pane), then RC on the target drive in the LH pane, and LC on EJECT.
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^ It may be mounting it as a "fixed" drive.
Make sure that it is configured for quick removal. Then just unplug it.
How do you check/configure this?
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How do you check/configure this?
RC on the target drive in My Computer > Properties > Hardware (Make ABSOLUTELY certain that you have the right HDD selected - Windows defaults to the first drive on the list; usually the system HDD!!) > Properties (again) > Policies > tick Optimise for Fast Removal.
I just noticed that my WD 2TB external boots up as a fixed disk ... Bloody Windows programmers!
This does not prevent you from just disconnecting the drive, or powering it down as if it were ejectable; just so long as no program is trying to access the drive when you do it ....
It also doesn't prevent the drive from showing up in Safely Eject Hardware list, it just won't work ...
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Thanks again.
I noticed yesterday when I defragmented the hard drive, that I couldn't select the external hard drive, eventhough WE saw it as a drive.
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Which defragger are you using?
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The standard windows 7 one.
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Download and install both these programs:
Download "Classic Shell", which will re-instate 'normal' Windows menus in both the OS and in most programs. It's free and available here:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/classicshell/ (http://sourceforge.net/projects/classicshell/)
You can disable the classic windows shell and menus if you like, but they are much faster and better than "Aero", IMNSHO ... It is able to be completely uninstalled, if you want to.
UltraDefrag is free and available here (DON'T use the Beta version ... ):
http://ultradefrag.sourceforge.net/en/index.html (http://ultradefrag.sourceforge.net/en/index.html)
This is one of the best front-ends for the defrag 'core' program installed in Windows since Win2K.
The MS Windows defrag GUI has gotten worse and worse over time, to the point where they have dispensed with it altogether from Win7 onwards ...
UltraDefrag hands back control to you, the user, and even allows you to defragment a specific file or folder from within the WE shell ...
www.sourceforge.net (http://www.sourceforge.net) are completely trustworthy.
These programs work with all versions of Windows where they are required to reinstate functionality removed by MS ... ??? .
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So use 6.0.2?
Will do tonight
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Yes.
I've been using this program on XP Pro, Vista and W7 for years.
From my Batphone
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OK. I can't select fast removal in policies/
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Turn it off.
MS love these dire warnings for perfectly normal choices of this kind.
From my Batphone
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Turn it off.
MS love these dire warnings for perfectly normal choices of this kind.
From my Batphone
Turning off you mean uncheck this box?
I noticed why the pc was low. Hen ripping CDs to my internal hard drive, itunes is accessing it at the same time.
And I think when I changed the location of the RAM from slot 1 and 3 to 1 and 2 that although it has more RAM, it can't work parrallel tasks as good anymore.
Is this correct?
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Sorry, been busy/out all day.
Yes, untick the first box; tick the second box.
When you say you have moved the RAM chips to different slots, what exactly have you done?
For modern motherboards and RAM to work at their best, the RAM needs to be in pairs (and if more than one pair, the same speed and type for each pair), and in the correct slots.
If you had four slots for RAM, and had two (identical) RAM chips, these would normally be inserted in slot 1 and slot 3. The slots are normally also colour coded - i.e. each pair of chips should be inserted in the same colour slot. Otherwise you are telling the computer to use the RAM chips using another access method, and this is almost invariably slower! It is only used if the chips do not match. The PC will normally then switch to the lower speed chip's speed, regardless of the speed of any/all other chips installed.
It is possible to mix RAM chips with one speed higher or lower (e.g. a pair each of DDR2 and DDR3), but it is not advisable, and the motherboard and firmware ROM on the MoBo need to support both the fitted RAM chips.
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Sorry, been busy/out all day.
Yes, untick the first box; tick the second box. Will do
When you say you have moved the RAM chips to different slots, what exactly have you done?
For modern motherboards and RAM to work at their best, the RAM needs to be in pairs (and if more than one pair, the same speed and type for each pair), and in the correct slots.
If you had four slots for RAM, and had two (identical) RAM chips, these would normally be inserted in slot 1 and slot 3. The slots are normally also colour coded - i.e. each pair of chips should be inserted in the same colour slot. Otherwise you are telling the computer to use the RAM chips using another access method, and this is almost invariably slower! It is only used if the chips do not match. The PC will normally then switch to the lower speed chip's speed, regardless of the speed of any/all other chips installed. That's wat i thought. They were in two different slots with the same color, slot 1 and slot 3. They are both the same DDR3 1333 Mhz
It is possible to mix RAM chips with one speed higher or lower (e.g. a pair each of DDR2 and DDR3), but it is not advisable, and the motherboard and firmware ROM on the MoBo need to support both the fitted RAM chips.
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So do you now have 2 pairs of RAM chips? Or one pair?
Running three chips (even if all the same speed) will switch the MoBo into a slower RAM access mode. Fast RAM chips should always be fitted in pairs.
For example, let's say that you already had 2x DDR3 1333 MHz chips totalling 2 GB (i.e. 2x 1 GB chips), but wanted to expand this for a 32 bit OS. You could fit another pair of 2x 1 GB DDR3 1333 MHz chips, giving you a total of 4 GB RAM.
If you already had 2x 2GB chips and were running a 64 bit OS, you could do either the above, fit a matching pair of 2 GB chips (total of 6 GB RAM), or fit another 2x 4GB chips (same specs) to give you a total of 10 GB. Both should work perfectly well, as the RAM speed, type and size allows the OS to mirror its access to each pair of chips. All this is dependent on what the MoBo manual states is allowed, but this sort of configuration is generally allowable in all the MoBos I have ever used.
If you fitted one of each type into the wrong pair of slots, the MoBo might either reject all the RAM outright, or run as slow as a dog with three broken legs ... It would be highly unlikely that this configuration would work at all, or work properly, if it did work. In this case, the correct way to install the chips would be to have the two 4 GB chips in slots 1 & 3 and the two 1 or 2 GB chips in slots 2 & 4 - this assumes that slots 1 & 3 are one colour, and slots 2 & 4 are the other colour.
I hope this makes some kind of sense - it's been a long day ... ;).
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I opened up the box and has a look inside.
There is 1 x 2Gb RAM in a blue slot (according the manual named DDR3 DIMM_A1 (64 bit, 240-pin module) and 1 x 2Gb RAM in the second blue slot (third of the total of 4, named DDR3 DIMM_B1 (64 bit, 240-pin module))
When I got the pc they were sitting next to each other 1 x 2 GB in blue slot A1 and 1 x 2 Gb in black slot A2.
I am running Win7 64-bit if that helps.
The RAMs are Corsaair 1333Mhz.
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Change them back to how they were. But put the 2 GB chip in the first slot and the 1 GB chip in the second slot.
As far as the MoBo is concerned, they are two different memory chips, because they are different capacities, even though they are the same speed, latency, refresh rate, brand, etc.
This will be slowing your PC down a lot, as the MoBo tries to synchronise read/write cycles to two different chips, which it cannot do ... .
Sorry, I misread your post ... You have them configured correctly now.
You could try putting them back how they were, but IMO the original configuration was wrong.
BTW, I never buy Corsair RAM chips. Stick with Kingston ... ;) . The few bucks extra is worth its weight in gold ...
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Maybe I have to look to buy 2 x 2Gb extra.
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Can I add any brand of RAM with the Corsair in the remaining 2 slots, as long as they are 1333Mhz?
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You should be fine, as long as it has the correct specs for your MoBo.
Best to stick with the same speed and type - i.e. you appear to have DDR3 chips ATM, so stick with this.
Avoid Hynix chips like the plague. Even cheaper and nastier than Corsair branded chips ...
Take your MoBo book with you to the shop, and also best to take the chips you have also. Don't touch the contacts, and preferably carry them in an anti-static bag. If you haven't got one, put them in a paper envelope. They will be able to positively identify what they are, and the specs. Playing mix-n-match with RAM chips doesn't work IME. I can put another 500 MB chip in one of my computers and all it does is slow it down noticeably ...
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The "sticks" I have are the Corsairs DDR3 CMV4GX3M2A1333C9.
"Corsair CMV4GX3M2A1333C9 4GB (2x2GB) PC3-10666 (1333MHz) DDR3 Dual Channel RAM, 2x240-pin DIMMs, Non ECC Unbuffered, 9-9-9-24, 1.5V, suitable for Intel and AMD dual channel DDR3 configurations."
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My brain just exploded reading this thread !
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The "sticks" I have are the Corsairs DDR3 CMV4GX3M2A1333C9.
"Corsair CMV4GX3M2A1333C9 4GB (2x2GB) PC3-10666 (1333MHz) DDR3 Dual Channel RAM, 2x240-pin DIMMs, Non ECC Unbuffered, 9-9-9-24, 1.5V, suitable for Intel and AMD dual channel DDR3 configurations."
If they are OK for your MoBo, I would buy a pair of 4 GB Kingston chips (i.e. 8 GB = 2 x 4 GB), and install them to slots 1 & 3 (these are the slots the MoBo uses first), and fit your existing chips back in slots 2 & 4 - i.e. the same type/size of chip in the same coloured socket. Make sure they are the same speed and type as your existing chips.
Since you have a 64 bit OS, it should handle this fine.
Just check that your MoBo can handle RAM chips this size (it's in the manual). It should be able to.
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The manual says that you can install up to 8Gb into the DIMM slots.
I also noticed that hey say that channel A is slot 1 & 2 (A1 and A2) and channel 2 is slot 3 & 4 (B1 and B2).
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The manual says that you can install up to 8Gb into the DIMM slots.
Into each slot, or in total?
I would be very surprised if any modern MoBo would have an 8 GB maximum memory limit, but I have been surprised many, many times in my life ... :laugh: .
I also noticed that hey say that channel A is slot 1 & 2 (A1 and A2) and channel 2 is slot 3 & 4 (B1 and B2).
I love it when they say things like that ??? . In order to be meaningful, they need to qualify the statement ...
Dual channel chips (pretty much all pairs of chips these days ... ) would normally be placed such that one of the pair is installed in each channel slot. I just checked a MoBo manual that I have to hand (Gigabyte), and they describe the slots the same way. However, chip installation is how I said - one of each pair in the A channel slot and one in the corresponding B channel slot.
Far more informative to look at the memory placment chart that tells you what you should fit, and where ...
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^ Further to the above, what is the brand and model number of your MoBo?
I can then find and download the manual off the Net.
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The motherboard is Asus M5A78L-M USB3.
It can handle a maximum of 32 Gb
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That tells me all I need to know ;D .
Check out the best price point for Kingston chips, and put that in. I haven't bought any chips for a while, but it's probably cheapest per GB at around the 2 x 4 GB chips.
Something like these:
Kingston 2x 4GB chips (http://www.cplonline.com.au/kingston-8gb-kit-2x4g-pc10666-1333mhz-kvr13n9s8k2-8-2370216.html) at $95 for the pair ...
BTW< Kingston will and do honour their lifetime warranty on everything they sell ... ;D .
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Cheers.
Is that in combination with the existing ones?
Sorry for hijacking this topic.
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^ Yes. Try them with and without.
Time the full opening time of the most demanding program that you use (e.g. Photoshop CS6, or the like), both with one set, both sets, then the other set.
I found that my wife's PC ran much faster with 2 GB of RAM than it did with 2.5 GB because of the slower access method used with the mixed chips and single channel memory access.
As a benchmark, my wife's PC is a 2.40 GHz Core2Duo, running 2 GB of DDR3 RAM and two moderately fast SATA HDDs (I prefer reliability to outright speed ... ). Besides, a 7500 rpm drive with a big on-drive cache is very much faster than the same drive with a smaller or non-existent cache; and as fast as faster spinning drive with a smaller on-drive cache, plus more reliable. After a reboot, it takes around 21 seconds to fully load Photoshop CS5 to the point where the menus will respond to a mouse click.
My main w/s has a 2.13 GHz Core2Duo, 4 GB of DDR2 RAM and 3x internal SATA HDDs. It takes about 24 seconds to fully load PS6 after a reboot.
Interestingly, my 10 y.o. IBM laptop with 2 GB of "Laptop" RAM and a 320 GB HDD loads PS5 in 17.5 seconds, and it's got a Pentium Mobile single core CPU ... The HDD has a very large cache (for a laptop HDD).
OTOH, I have seen laptops with an i7 CPU, 8 GB RAM and using a SSD that take over 35 seconds to load PS6 ...
It's all in setting the PC up properly (and the OS ... ), and having the right 'balance' of components, IMNSHO ...
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When I was working on the desktop yesterday, I noticed that using the exernal hard drive slows things down.
Using Wondershare Video Editor, I imported a HD video from the external hard drive and started editing. The sound was like an old LP, it was going back a few times before continuing. When I saved the video to my internal hard drive, re-imported it and start working, it was all good. No delay.
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The theoretical speed of external HDDs is a headline figure made up by marketing people ...
The actual throughput of a USB2 drive is around 20-30 MB/s; USB3 around 50-60 MB/s. Firewire 400 will actually attain around that speed - 400 Mbps or 50 MB/s. I haven't used any Firewire 800 devices, so cannot say about them.
Any decent internal SATA HDD will be between 100-160 MB/s, depending on its speed (rpm) and cache size (and MoBo/chipset design, memory, etc, etc, etc ... ). So far faster than any USB external HDD
SCSI HDDs are far faster again, but almost none around these days; and bloody expensive, as always.
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Ratbag,
Please help: the PC is now running slower than ever. Have not done anything other than the prescribed steps. Where do I start, and more importantly why would the PC work better, and now be worse than ever? It's agonisingly slow using internet, but almost as bad accessing files from the hard drive eg photos.
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Gidday Nigel
Ratbag,
Please help: the PC is now running slower than ever. Have not done anything other than the prescribed steps. Where do I start, and more importantly why would the PC work better, and now be worse than ever? It's agonisingly slow using internet, but almost as bad accessing files from the hard drive eg photos.
Probably best if you PM me all the details about your PC, operating system and specific problem/s. Also what steps you have done to date.
It is far easier to deal with these things on a one to one basis than it is with them being all mixed up in a normal thread - like this one ... .
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You might consider creating your own main topic; Ask Ratbag.....
:cup:
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Got sick after waiting so long for the Video Editor to do something, that I finally ordered 2x4Gb Kingston memory.
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OK, here goes again......I downloaded Open Office ( didn't want to pay for Word ).
It works OK, and I did my resume on it and it saved as an odt file ...now this is where it gets complicated.....apart from the computer not wanting to open the file I just saved, if I attach it to an online application, I'm presuming they won't be able to open it at the other end either ( apart from them stating that doc, pdf and a couple others are the preferred file types )
So, I got smart and scanned the 2 pages after I printed them off and they saved as pdf files ( but there is 2 of them of course ).
But, the online applications will only let you upload one file ( but I have 2 ?? )
Is there an easy way around this......or am I destined to buy Word and be done with it ??
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You should be able to "save as" to a .docx file in openoffice which Office will open.
Select File - Save As
Select docx in the dropdown.
http://www.ehow.com/how_8089597_save-docx-file-open-office.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_8089597_save-docx-file-open-office.html)
You can also install one of many pdf writers which will enable you to print to pdf.
Select Print
Select the appropriate pdf printer
This will then print your file to a saveable pdf file (as one file)
http://www.cutepdf.com/ (http://www.cutepdf.com/) comes to mind as one I have used in the past
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Yep, after following your advice, I can save it to word 97 ( doc file ) which will open back up and I presume send as a doc file ( of course )
But, without retyping the resume, I can't see how I can convert the odt to a doc file once I have already saved it as a odt file. ?
Sorry, I didn't understand the printer bit ??
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If you have saved the file as an odt file then you have saved it in openoffice format. if you then save this file as a doc file then you have saved (or converted) it to a word format as another file. No need to convert it after that as you now have two different files in different formats (of the one file). Once you "save as" to a doc file you are done.
If you install cutepdf on your computer it (in simple terms) installs a new (virtual) printer on your computer. Once this is done you print your file and select the cutepdf printer as your printer. This then (after doing some stuff) saves your file as a pdf file and you can save it where you like on your pc. Just think of it as another printer that prints to a pdf file rather than a physical printer.
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Gidday Gronk
Open the .ODT file. Go to FILE, SAVE AS, then save it as a .DOC file type (select this type from the drop-down list box).
You can also set the Options in Open Office so that it defaults to MS standard formats - .DOC, .XLS, etc.
ONLY MS could dream up using a programming language (.XML) for saving document files - .DOCX, etc. Is that an open invitation to the script kiddies, or what?
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ONLY MS could dream up using a programming language (.XML) for saving document files - .DOCX, etc. Is that an open invitation to the script kiddies, or what?
DOCX format allows for a multitude of advantages...
They did do it for a few good reasons...
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DOCX format allows for a multitude of advantages...
They did do it for a few good reasons...
Sharepoint
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Sharepoint
that's one important one, right there...
here's some others:
http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2007/jun/21/comment.comment1 (http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2007/jun/21/comment.comment1)
http://www.thebookdesigner.com/2013/04/docx-vs-doc/ (http://www.thebookdesigner.com/2013/04/docx-vs-doc/)
and it's an open standard, which is handy... :)
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Thanks fellas, I now have 2 saved files for my resume...odt and doc......was no option for a docx, so doc will have to do !!
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Thanks fellas, I now have 2 saved files for my resume...odt and doc......was no option for a docx, so doc will have to do !!
just to confuse things... :)
PDF is a nice format for resumes and such...
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Gidday PM
that's one important one, right there...
here's some others:
http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2007/jun/21/comment.comment1 (http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2007/jun/21/comment.comment1)
http://www.thebookdesigner.com/2013/04/docx-vs-doc/ (http://www.thebookdesigner.com/2013/04/docx-vs-doc/)
and it's an open standard, which is handy... :)
Good articles. Thanks, mate.
Interestingly, the second author finishes with:
"There is no reason to be browbeaten into thinking that there should only be one document format. And I welcome the increases in power, flexibility, openness and choice brought by .docx, even though I have no intention of using it."
LOL! I'm with him. Even though the compatibility pack from MS is bigger than the entirety of Word v5.5 (fully WYSIWYG for DOS), in fact, many times over. I still have Word for DOS v5.5 ...
We still use Office 2003 Pro, with the compatibility pack installed on all the PCs.
I still have the Word User Manual for Office 97, which was a mere 800+ pages long. It's a great program. The Word Basic programming Guide is a similar size, but it appears to have buried itself somewhere. There is no single, downloadable instruction manual for any modern version of Word (or other Office products), to my knowledge. If anyone knows of one, please point me at it ...
The issue/s with image quality when embedded are really simple to overcome. Firstly re-size a large image to the approximate size required in even a terrific freeware program like FastStone Viewer (if there are to be hundreds of images in a single Word file, otherwise, just insert the full size image!). When the document is needed to be "shared" - i.e. usually forwarded to a recipient - print it to a PDF file.
PDF files have the huge advantage of both displaying correctly on all platforms (e.g. all versions of the Apple OS, many of which are incompatible with each other ...; as well as all the different flavours of Unix) and secondly, Acrobat selectively compresses image files at whatever resolution is required, while saving the text as true type fonts.
I like the mention of higher security with .DOCX files. That's why there have been so many security patches for the Office 2007 Compatibility Pack ... ;).
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OK, back to trying to work things through again..
I got smart and scanned the 3 pages of my resume, which then saved to the computer as pdf files....which is where my problem lies..
When applying for jobs, they ask for your resume and give you an option to attach a file......but only one file .....but mines in 3 seperate files. ?
How do I convert 2 or 3 files into one file ??
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how did you scan them?
normally if you are scanning pages, the software will ask if you want to scan another page, which will then combine the two pages together...
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I wouldn't scan your resume. I would type out and save your word doc as a PDF, or covert your resume to a pdf if already in word.
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PM sent
If you can email it to me I will convert it for you.
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If you have the full Acrobat, you can add pages to your document so you will have 1 file with 3 pages.
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^ & ^^
If you have a Canon multi-function device, their software allows manipulating separate PDF files, including combining them.
I don't know, but I'm pretty sure that other MFP devices would have similar facilities available.
I can also convert three individual PDFs into one for you. Acrobat Pro does this easily. Acrobat Reader requires you to bare all to Adobe, and pay them for the privilege. I can think of people and corporations that I would rather trust ... ;).
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I wouldn't scan your resume. I would type out and save your word doc as a PDF, or covert your resume to a pdf if already in word.
I agree, B4. Far better presentation all round, and presentation is what will get your foot in the door ...
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If you need to split, merge rotate etc PDFs, then http://www.pdfsam.org (http://www.pdfsam.org) is your answer - best part is the price - FREE. I use it all the time at work and its never failed me.
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I wouldn't scan your resume. I would type out and save your word doc as a PDF, or covert your resume to a pdf if already in word.
I typed it out in the 1st place.....into a odt file...which I then converted to a doc file....AND I printed out the original, that I scanned and saved also as a pdf..
I'm not sure as to presentation, as all copies look exactly the same to me !!
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^^^ Just thinking what I would think if someone handed me a scanned resume. If you think they look the same as a printed one? Go for it .
In word, all you have to do is save it as a pdf instead of doc
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"After you install 2007 Microsoft Office system Service Pack 2 (SP2), you can open and save files in the OpenDocument Text (.odt) file format used by some word processing applications, such as OpenOffice.org Writer and Google Docs."
Email it to someone with office 2007 and get them to resave it for you.
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If you convert it to a pdf BEFORE you print it you won't get scanning and printing imperfections on your pdf and it will be in one file.
As I said before I can convert it for you, the offer is there.
Just did a search and Openoffice can export to pdf.
Page 5 of this document
https://wiki.openoffice.org/w/images/8/8f/0110GS3-PrintingExportingEmailing.pdf (https://wiki.openoffice.org/w/images/8/8f/0110GS3-PrintingExportingEmailing.pdf)
This will create a pdf directly from your document
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Gidday Noel
If you convert it to a pdf BEFORE you print it you won't get scanning and printing imperfections on your pdf and it will be in one file.
As I said before I can convert it for you, the offer is there.
Just did a search and Openoffice can export to pdf.
Page 5 of this document
https://wiki.openoffice.org/w/images/8/8f/0110GS3-PrintingExportingEmailing.pdf (https://wiki.openoffice.org/w/images/8/8f/0110GS3-PrintingExportingEmailing.pdf)
This will create a pdf directly from your document
That's very useful to know, thanks mate.
The PC we have that has OpenOffice installed on it is currently non compos mentis. So cannot verify if the version I installed on it can do that useful trick.
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^^^ Just thinking what I would think if someone handed me a scanned resume. If you think they look the same as a printed one? Go for it .
In word, all you have to do is save it as a pdf instead of doc
All the jobs so far have been online, and you send in your resume by e mail...not sure if resumes need to be "pretty " anymore or not ??
How many pages should a resume be ?? I can't get past 2 pages....my 2 referees take almost another ??
I may not have emphasised that I don't have word, only open office....but I can now save it as doc or pdf
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All the jobs so far have been online, and you send in your resume by e mail...not sure if resumes need to be "pretty " anymore or not ??
How many pages should a resume be ?? I can't get past 2 pages....my 2 referees take almost another ??
I may not have emphasised that I don't have word, only open office....but I can now save it as doc or pdf
mine have only ever been a couple of pages and i've had a few jobs...
any more than 2 or 3 pages and it gets boring... :)
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any more than 2 or 3 pages and it gets boring... :)
I was lucky to get 2 pages...lol..
I've had a few jobs, but nearly all of them the same type of job..
Hardest part now is to do something different ( no one wants to hire someone with no or little experience ) plus I'm 55 yrs old..
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I was lucky to get 2 pages...lol..
I've had a few jobs, but nearly all of them the same type of job..
Hardest part now is to do something different ( no one wants to hire someone with no or little experience ) plus I'm 55 yrs old..
well, good luck!
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There are templates you can download for free off the net. They seem to change year to year?
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Ok, I've decided I dislike software updates. It doesn't happen all the time, but the GPS software has now taken over an hour. Based on past experience if I don't sit here and watch it, the laptop goes into sleep mode, even though it's doing stuff. What do I do to turn the sleep or power save mode off?
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Ok, I've decided I dislike software updates. It doesn't happen all the time, but the GPS software has now taken over an hour. Based on past experience if I don't sit here and watch it, the laptop goes into sleep mode, even though it's doing stuff. What do I do to turn the sleep or power save mode off?
Go into power options and turn it off from there mate, should be able to find it through the battery symbol or through control panel and just selecting to turn computer off as Never.
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Go into power options and turn it off from there mate, should be able to find it through the battery symbol or through control panel and just selecting to turn computer off as Never.
thnx, found it, just set it to 2hours
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thnx, found it, just set it to 2hours
Ya should have rang me. Set it to never.
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(http://www.explosm.net/db/files/Comics/Kris/computer2.png)
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I've used Seagate's Seatools successfully to recognise and detect faults in hard drives and Seagate orta know what it's all about-
http://www.seagate.com/au/en/support/downloads/seatools/seatools-win-master/ (http://www.seagate.com/au/en/support/downloads/seatools/seatools-win-master/)
Hard drives can get a bad sector and create all sorts of problems but Seatools can usually find it and quarantine it. (can find the bloody drive for starters when Windows can't)
The only thing I'd say about 5+ year old computers from bitter experience is NEVER EVER upgrade but go and buy a new one as hardware and software tend to move along in tandem and faster than many us would prefer.
And on that note I've gotta say the NBN FTTP was one helluva fantasy with its hopelessly optimistic takeup assumptions when you consider the added cost of keeping up on the hardware/software treadmill plus greasing Geeks2u if the household hasn't got someone to be the bush IT eggspert. Is it any wonder many chuck it it in the too hard basket and stick to mobile phones and tablets with reset facilities and the cloud. Strike me pink if the 'dont wanna know' crowd around here haven't picked up another net hijacker and are chucking tantys that I can't be bothered with it for the time being. They've got tablets, a laptop and a second PC but always want to use my PC because theirs are full of crap. They think cars are these marvellous things that only run on petrol too ::)
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I thought I'd have a turn at asking the clever folk on this thread.
My old laptop runs XP.
I use either firefox or chrome to look on the net, and considering it is an old machine, the net works fast.
BUT
I can't see phone numbers in Gumtree Ads, no add lets me click on the link thingy to show the number.
I am certain it is due to my Lap Top, but no idea what I may be able to do to fix it. Works on other computers.
Some other sort of similar faults I think, some of the recent posts here in myswag with pics, I can't see some pics, it gives a symbol of a page of writing with a top corner folded over instead.
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I thought I'd have a turn at asking the clever folk on this thread.
My old laptop runs XP.
I use either firefox or chrome to look on the net, and considering it is an old machine, the net works fast.
BUT
I can't see phone numbers in Gumtree Ads, no add lets me click on the link thingy to show the number.
I am certain it is due to my Lap Top, but no idea what I may be able to do to fix it. Works on other computers.
Some other sort of similar faults I think, some of the recent posts here in myswag with pics, I can't see some pics, it gives a symbol of a page of writing with a top corner folded over instead.
The phone numbers would be something like java script disabled.
As for the image links being broken you may have a bandwdth tool /firewall blocking them.
It will certainly be software configuration rather than a hardware issue.
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Thanks. Although I don't know what you speak of to be honest.
Do I have to find something called java download it?
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DaveR let me guess. The laptop you're having trouble with runs XP while the others you use are running Wn 7 or 8 and no probs? I've still got one PC running XP and I have the same problem/s with funny results with web pages and error messages and I put it down to XP being well past its use by date. That means ditto the PC it runs on and welcome to the hardware/software treadmill. Yeah I know we're old school and don't like chucking things out but it's really a boat anchor :'(
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Sure xp is end of life and unsupported but that doesnt mean a 3rd party browser shouldn't work.
to address your javascript issues try this
http://whrl.pl/RdhOZ3 (http://whrl.pl/RdhOZ3)
As for if the lappie is a boat anchor of not that comes down solely to hardware.
My old atom powered eeepc originally came with xp and now runs just fine with dial booting linux mint and win7.
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I found the Java thingy.
No idea how, just googled it, clicked on something and then nothing. Now, that I shut it down and turned back on again, the net seems to work a lot better, and can see the phone numbers in gumtree adds now.
I'll keep this old lap top till it dies, no need for a new 1 till then.
There was a time when I was interested in what makes these things work, could ever write visual basic code 15 years ago. Now I have deleted that interest and knowledge and moved on.
Thanks Swaggers
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OK, you gurus have helped me a few times now......and here goes again...
I have a laptop...win 7....have google chrome and firefox ( which I don't use ).....lately facebook ( only facebook ) has decided to come up with a blue screen with "you're dead Jim " on it....also saying something about browser memory ??
So, I go to firefox and look at facebook and all OK, but I like the way chrome presents ( with tiles for all the sites I like ), so a pain to alternate between the two !
So, I download IE 11.....can see it in the download list...click on it and it restarts the computer etc.....but where is it ???
I presumed it would appear as an icon on the main screen so I could use it, but I can't access it because I don't know where it is ??
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Here are the good guys against viruses, trojans, hijackers and trojans, yada, yada-
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tutorials/ (http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tutorials/)
and click the most popular icon for the gist of it but there are specific tutorials for general probs andfixes.
You'll note if you get infected by the bad guys it can often take a number of tools to get rid of them as no one tool fits all. Or alternatively you can leave the bush IT eggspert scene altogether for online and the cloud and note the current $399 price tag of this one from Kogan-
LG 21.5" FHD IPS All-in-One Chrome Desktop Computer with Mouse and Keyboard (22CV241)
You can see why upgrading hardware is for old school trogs who don't like chucking working stuff away but the rub is if you fall too far behind on the hardware/software treadmill you will find it hard to catch up. By the way Win7 has been around for 5 yrs and Microsoft have a lower level of support commitment for it as of Jan next year and cutting out completely by 2020.
Not on touchy feely Win 8.1 yet? That's OK MS are busy skipping 'Win9' for Win10 so do try and keep up.
PS: By the way if you're thinking about a new printer check out the new 'Precision Core Technology' Epson multifunctions from Officeworks. In particular the low cost high capacity inkjet refill jobs like the WF3640 for $198-
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/epson-workforce-wf-3640-colour-inkjet-multifunction-epwf3640?searchTerm=epson%20workforce (http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/epson-workforce-wf-3640-colour-inkjet-multifunction-epwf3640?searchTerm=epson%20workforce)
or if you need an A3 occasionally for $239 the WF7610-
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/epson-workforce-wf-7610-a3-inkjet-multifunction-epwf7610?searchTerm=epson%20workforce (http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/epson-workforce-wf-7610-a3-inkjet-multifunction-epwf7610?searchTerm=epson%20workforce)
Been a mono laser man myself but at those overall prices how could you beat Epson's new tech, bearing in mind they're duplex colour with Wifi bells and whistles, etc
Sometimes you have to look hard at your current passable plodder and force yourself to ditch it and get with the program
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$399 and let Google take care of you rather than paying the geeks and LG give the hardware 3 yr warranty-
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1073793-REG/lg_22cv241_w_chromebase_all_in_one.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1073793-REG/lg_22cv241_w_chromebase_all_in_one.html)
Still into your old clunker and begging for help in the hardware/software mire? Duh!
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prodigyrf, I presume that post was in answer to mine.......but I don't really know what it was all about ??????
Looking at the link you provided, I then looked at my programs installed and IE isn't there.....but it is sitting in the download section ( 30Mb )
How do I get IE to install ?
Are you saying I've got malware or a virus or something ?
The laptop is only 3 or 4 yrs old, so the "old" clunker will have to last a bit longer yet !! 8)
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Nah gronk my posts are more general comments about the bloody interminable IT software/hardware treadmill as I'm dealing with the blissfully ignorant useless mob around here that think the various desktops, tablet/laptops are just like their cars. Basically you turn them on and they run magically on fairy dust and if they don't then Bob the Builder he can fixit! After all he's 'semi-retired' with nothing to do all day.
Printer consumables? What are they? Rootkit viruses/trojans and net hijackers? Never heard of such things until their seamless cossetted digital lifestyle is rudely interrupted and then it's what are you doing about it old man? Getting the grey hairs I never had before I met you lot that's wot!
Just baying at the moon after having to reload MY toshiba laptop after the missus uses it after the daughter and I realize the error message is a fatal one after googling it. They've lost some piccys and data and it's all MY fault (remember wot I told you about backing up your data on those nice 1TB portable hard drives I bought and labelled personally for you all? Talk to the hand old man :'()
The lad has finally got fixed internet on at his place and asked me to look into a multifunction printer for him at the same time the BIL asked me. That's when I came across that new Epson technology on the net which changed my views about lasers which I'd largely used in biz and still have one at home. Turns out the BIL had asked the knowledgeable young feller at Officeworks what should he buy and independently we'd come up with the same answer. So both the lad and he now sport those Epsons so just thought I'd pass it on for general info.
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By the way when you ask-"Are you saying I've got malware or a virus or something ?" the mob around here never know but I can tell you they pick up more or less nasties than they'll ever know because I'm the only one that regularly maintains them, updates the drivers, software, etc and checks for malware and you'd be surprised what I find.
That's the major problem with computing is every time you go on the net you're open to a globe full of villains and hence you need to understand what sites like bleepingcomputer are all about.
Then you look at that LG/ Chromebase setup with its cloud based IT support/backup and you can see it's the future for most and pitched perfectly for mainstream users. I accept that many old computers have more than enough computing power for most needs but it's the net that makes them redundant, or more's the point too much hassle for the average punter to maintain. You wants to play you gots to pay and increasingly that points to the cloud based drip, providing of course you have access to reasonably fast internet connectivity.
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Business is waking up fast-
http://www.forbes.com/sites/quickerbettertech/2014/01/06/why-your-company-may-dump-quickbooks-this-year/ (http://www.forbes.com/sites/quickerbettertech/2014/01/06/why-your-company-may-dump-quickbooks-this-year/)
The money quote- “Most of the large software companies aren’t putting many resources into on-premise solutions any more,”
The lad is taking all the Co. admin to the cloud now and we'll all need to embrace it with home computing in future too.
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OK, you gurus have helped me a few times now......and here goes again...
I have a laptop...win 7....have google chrome and firefox ( which I don't use ).....lately facebook ( only facebook ) has decided to come up with a blue screen with "you're dead Jim " on it....also saying something about browser memory ??
So, I go to firefox and look at facebook and all OK, but I like the way chrome presents ( with tiles for all the sites I like ), so a pain to alternate between the two !
So, I download IE 11.....can see it in the download list...click on it and it restarts the computer etc.....but where is it ???
I presumed it would appear as an icon on the main screen so I could use it, but I can't access it because I don't know where it is ??
I thought I would post this again !!!
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Anybody encountered this when sending email
Server error: '550 #5.1.0 Address rejected.'
I have a business email address & up until yesterday had no problems. Now when i try to send an email i get the above message.
I've restored the computer to day before... no change
A google search reveals supposed SMTP issues, but no changes have been made to the email accounts & i dont really understand the whole protocol thingy....
I'm reluctant to delete email account & reset-up as i cant afford to lose my business emails.
I might add that my email hosting is different to my ISP, but havent had issues in the past.
Its a PITA as i just finished a job today & trying to send invoice for pre xmas payment
If anybody's got any thoughts/answers i'd love to hear them
:cheers: