MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Haggy on December 22, 2013, 11:31:29 AM
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Looking at doing the garage floor sealing some of that epoxy floor kits.
Anyone have any DIY experience - looking at using this kit from Dymark:
https://www.dymark.com.au/categories/protectivedecorative/decorative/epoxycoat (https://www.dymark.com.au/categories/protectivedecorative/decorative/epoxycoat)
http://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-8l-epoxy-slate-garage-floor-coating-kit_p1580415 (http://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-8l-epoxy-slate-garage-floor-coating-kit_p1580415)
Cheers
chris
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I have seen that kit at Bunnings and wondered how good it is. I painted my garage floor with Berger Jet Dry about 6 years ago. It has worn ok however where the tyres sit has worn away and the surface is now slippery when wet. That kit says resists hot tyre pick-up so that is good but nothing about how slippery/grippy it is. I'd be interested to know how you go.
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My wife used to sell these kits. A few tips from her:
This is only suitable for under cover garages not suitable for driveways as the sun will very quickly fade the colour.
If going on to concrete ( not previously painted)
1. Acid wash total area with hydro caloric acid 6-1 mix with water.
2. Hose it off.
3. Use a water based degreaser (Gensole) for a final clean and hose off.
4. Must be totally dry (could take a few days) to test it's dry, place glad wrap over a section of floor for a couple of hours. If glad wrap is sweating then it is still not dry enough.
5. Once dry, follow directions of epoxy 1st coat just paint 1 square meter at a time. Take your time and Don't try and spread the paint over the whole area quickly.
6. 2nd coat after 8 hours drying of 1st coat (or overnight). Then spread same as 1st coat.
7. Epoxy chips must be spread over the 2nd coat while it is wet. Take you time in spreading chips to give it that random look that you are after.
8. Leave it for at least a week before driving the car on it.
Good luck.
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Sounds like a lot of hard work, I think I'll just slop another coat of Jet Dry on my floor.
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Sounds like a lot of hard work, I think I'll just slop another coat of Jet Dry on my floor.
The Mrs agrees you are better off just re coating.
Sand loose paint around area where it is peeling. Use water based degreaser to clean prior to reprint.
If you park in the same spot all of the time, place cheap rubber car mats where the tyres contact the driveway. This will obviously make the paint last.
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I have that stuff on my garage floor and is peeling off in large sections everywhere. Granted we moved in in 2006 and had been there a few years before that.
I will have to fix it somehow before we sell & am thinking just strip it all out and jetdry it as mentioned above.
It's not too bad as a garage floor surface, not slippery etc but hasn't stood the test of time for us.
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If you park in the same spot all of the time, place cheap rubber car mats where the tyres contact the driveway. This will obviously make the paint last.
This is what I do.
Bill
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http://www.nutechpaints.com.au/floorcoatingspavecoat.htm (http://www.nutechpaints.com.au/floorcoatingspavecoat.htm)
This works well on my drive way
Nutech Concrete floor coating Pavecoat H2o (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSBilqNfIXA#ws)
All the cleaning was with a sthil high presure water cleaner
Cheers
Geoff
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I know this is an old thread but i found it useful and have just completed the task using yhe dymark kit.
I have 1 piece of advice for anyone thinking about: do NOT buy budget roller brushes. Get the expensive quality rollers.
I went the cheapos and due to the glue they self destructed after a couple of minutes. I would have used at least 10 and spent a long time picking the bits out of the floor before it set.
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There's a brush on pavement paint I saw in the buggered up mix table.. I'll try to see what it's called
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I've got cement on my garage floor.....hasn't worn away yet !! ;D
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I've got cement on my garage floor.....hasn't worn away yet !! ;D
Just cement??
Must be soft and dusty without sand and aggregate...... :P
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Just cement??
Must be soft and dusty without sand and aggregate...... :P
:cup:
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I know this is an old thread but i found it useful and have just completed the task using yhe dymark kit.
I have 1 piece of advice for anyone thinking about: do NOT buy budget roller brushes. Get the expensive quality rollers.
I went the cheapos and due to the glue they self destructed after a couple of minutes. I would have used at least 10 and spent a long time picking the bits out of the floor before it set.
How did you find it?
I do this as part of my business & thought they would be crap. Single coat solvent epoxy & a pissy little bag of flake. I have seen them at the green shed & think it would be a struggle for average punter to make the kit spread to cover 36sqmtr. On the flake alone we use 10-15 kg for a dbl garage.
The system i use is a 4 coat system.
Preparation is the key, acid should be avoided, we tend to grind &/or gerni, then 1 coat of primer, basecoat & flake, then minimum 2 coats of PU clear topcoat.
I've just done another floor & benchtop at home this week, so will post up some pics when i get my desktop backup & running.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
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Moggy havent driven on it yet. The instructions say 7-10 days so I am giving it the full 10 days.
With regards quantities there was more than enough paint and flakes. Fair bit of leeway built in. The etching solution bubbled away and lifted heaps of gunk out of the concrete, but I cant vouch for its properties in comparison to acid that you use as I've never done this sort of thing before.
The real test will be in use and how well/long it endures. I followed the instructions regarding scrubbing, mixing, waiting times etc. Figured it was worth a try as I got quoted $2k for a professional job.
Will post results if anything to tell.
TB
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I used a two pack covering from a company called Jotun. They do industrial coatings, I can look up the part number when home. Brilliant stuff, forgot those domestic kits. If you can sweet talk them at a Jotun warehouse to get a discount you can buy this stuff same price as paving paint. I think it's made near Altona on the side of the Westgate?
I just acid washed, allowed to dry. (Good tip on water degreaser muzz) it comes in 4l or 20l drums, half full. The harder in 500ml or 10l. Choice of colours but grey is stock. Chuck it together and use a stirer on a drill and mix really well. Buy the cheap throw away roller kit from Bunnings and have pre washed the roller to remove fluff and allow to dry and go for it. You need to apply the second coat within a certain period which depends on temp. Once done it's tough as. It's not uv cured so the strip in front of door will fade, it will also stain and stratch a little but very resistant.
You can spray it if you want the mess and need the thinners. If you have really chalky crap concrete you can dilute the first coat to soak it in more to allow second to bite better.
It's the best thing I ever did and looks smick. No dust, oil doesn't stain and looks great.
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just do it as soon as you can...!!!
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I can highly recommend the Jotun product aswell. Has stood up to fuel/oil spills fantastically well. Only thing it doesn't like is a circular saw blade :-[
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I can highly recommend the Jotun product aswell......Only thing it doesn't like is a circular saw blade :-[
No, really? Who would have thought ;D ;D
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I can highly recommend the Jotun product aswell. Has stood up to fuel/oil spills fantastically well. Only thing it doesn't like is a circular saw blade :-[
Lol yeah weld splatter stains it too.
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No doubt Jotan makes an awesome industrial paint. It's worth the extra $$ but just make sure you follow directions exactly. Use proper thinners and accelerators as the wrong one can make it a nightmare to remove and start again.
This paint is so tough they should paint the aircraft black boxes with it. ;D