MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Jeepers Creepers on March 02, 2013, 12:30:10 PM
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This morning, i was about to head off and pick up our CT from where i keep it to bring it home and give the bearings etc a once over.
I'd had the treg hitch off during the week, so just to be sure it was all good, i put a large shifter on the big nut that secures it to the towbar tongue.
Hmmm, i got a half turn out of it and it came loose.... ???
I thought to myself, ya dickhead, you went the wrong way...... but i hadn't.
Then i thought, geez, surely i haven't stripped the thread.
So i tried tightning it up again and the threaded section fell on the floor.
When the treg hitch had been made, it would appear, they drill a hole, feed the threaded section in to it and weld it.
Well, when i post the pics up, you'll clearly see that the weld had just just touched the smallest portion of the threaded section.
I haven't been able to speak with the folks that supplied it, as they aren't open on a saturday and i'd speak with them first before talking to treg themselves.
The main point however, is no one has any idea how much weld penertration has taken place, short of x raying each and every hitch.
We have to have rated shackles and safety chains, but not on the welds it would appear.
Now, i'm not chucking a wobbly or anything, as no damage has occured and no one hurt or anything like that.
I just wanted to bring it to folks attention on something that can go wrong and could've gone wrong on a slightly grander scale.
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Very, very lucky to find it now and not while towing.
I had a car trailer come off once and swing on the chains (lucky I had the chains crossed over). All was good till I braked and kaboom trailer through the back of the car...
Not a fun experience
Sent from Behind you...BOO
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I've got two Treg's up the shed..............think I'll go check them out :o Thanks for the heads up mate :cheers:
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Lucky boy. I hope you get satifaction from your supplier mate. It makes you wionder if they under go a safety check
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Was it a 'Treg' or a 'Treg copy'? There have been some stories and pics floating around about Treg copies.
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It was bought as treg and it says treg on the invoice, so it better be a treg.
I guess the main issue is, you just can't tell if its any good or not by looking at it..... the weld that is.
From the outside, the weld looks fine, but it barely touched the threaded bit.
I'm no welder, but it should have had a circle weld done around the thread where it inserts into the body of the hitch and then fill the to of the hole in, if you what i mean.
Once Mrs. Jeepers loads the pics into the bucket, i'll zot 'em on up and you'll all see what i'm waffling on about
Oh, by the way, the hitch was bought brand new in August last year and has done two trips to Fraser, so still like brand new really.
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Reminds me of a bunch of sunraysia rims that had been pressed together but not welded. Mucho problemo!
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It was bought as treg and it says treg on the invoice, so it better be a treg.
Pretty sure the genuine Treg couplings have 'treg' stamped on the part that attched to the car. They also have 'treg' cast into the poly block.
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Treg are about 200 metres from where I work. Hardy Road Underdale, if you like I can get you some pics of what a genuine Treg looks like and post it up on Monday?
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wow Jeepers, lucky....
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Pretty sure the genuine Treg couplings have 'treg' stamped on the part that attched to the car. They also have 'treg' cast into the poly block.
Yeah, you can't just "think" it's a Treg hitch, it's got it on there in big letters.
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Wow that's scary! Im very interested in seeing a couple of pics
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I can't recall seeing the word TREG or TREGG anywhere on the product either.......
I'm going down shortly to get some pics of the main trailer portion of the hitch, then i'll come home and load 'em up.
I'm really hoping i haven't been sold a cheap chinese hitch and told it was the real McCoy.
I asked for a TREG hitch, because i wanted quality, so if it does turn out to be a ring-in, i'll not be the happy chappie i normally am.
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Pretty sure the genuine Treg couplings have 'treg' stamped on the part that attched to the car. They also have 'treg' cast into the poly block.
My Treg had Treg cast into the poly block but nothing on the coupling itself.
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I've got a spare in the shed from when I converted to an OzHitch if you want it. It's definitely genuine. Only the car end. :cheers:
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I've got a spare in the shed from when I converted to an OzHitch if you want it. It's definitely genuine. Only the car end. :cheers:
Thanks for that..... i'll let you know. :cheers:
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0172_zpsd1f6c099.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0173_zps11174ea2.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0167_zps3d1a651f.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0164_zps8b2e4017.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0166_zpse15cb298.jpg)
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Sorry, pics are a bit off.
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0176_zps6efc32c5.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0174_zps706486ea.jpg)
No TREG markings anywhere to be seen.
I'll let you all know how i go tomorrow with it all.
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Just mow an extra 10 yards tomorrow and get yourself a DO35. (Okay, maybe 20 yards, heck I don't know what you charge!; I also don't know where you will find those extra 20 yards, and I most certainly don't know when the rain will stop, but then life is full of these little challenges)
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It looks heaps different to my treg mate, although the one i have is a few years old now. Mine has Treg sa markings stamped on it. Ill post some pics for you when i get back from the maternity photo shoot.
Cheers
Evo
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Yeah, i'm hoping i haven't been stuck for a cheap import as TREG.
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Mine has a treg stamp on the top and is gold in colour , design looks the same though
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That looks like a cheap knock off of my cheap knock off. From the looks of it there has not been enough penetration into the bolt stub even though there should have been as it looks like they could get full penetration from the top.
How did so much rust get going?
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Mine is a 2011 make - came with the KK, the poly block also has Treg marked on same.
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Don't know Dazzler, except, maybe it came up the thread...... perhaps.
Yeah, the welder barley touched the threaded portion.
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What sort of trailer have you got or where did u buy the coupling?
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Wait until i've spoken with the supplier before i say where i bought the hitch. I think thats fair.
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I remember reading something either on here or another website about many of the 'treg' style hitches being sold on ebay having no ADR stamp/compliance and being illegal to use in oz. I'm happy to be corrected, but also believe a camper manufacturer or importer had to recall their campers because of this?
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Does it have a red poly block.
It looks identical to the hitch you find on any imported camper.
The one I had was attached to my GIC camper. It was not ADR approved. I replaced it a week after purchase with a standard 50mm ball coupling from Repco.
I think you will find it will be the same POS "trek hitch" flooding the market.
Rob
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No, not red, its a black poly block and purchased from a trailer place, not off ebay. Was fitted by the supplier as well as said earlir, says TREG hitch on the invoice.
My trailer is aussie made as well.
I'll be seeing the guy tomorrow who sold it to me, so i'll know a lot more by then, as i'll phone TREG direct first and ask some questions.
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Genuine Treg hitches are gold with a blue poly block. Sounds like you have a copy.
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One of mine has TREG on the Hitch, and both of mine have Treg written on the Rubber block.
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I remember reading something either on here or another website about many of the 'treg' style hitches being sold on ebay having no ADR stamp/compliance and being illegal to use in oz. I'm happy to be corrected, but also believe a camper manufacturer or importer had to recall their campers because of this?
This is true. Although these rules only started jan 1. As far as I know
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Genuine Treg hitches are gold with a blue poly block. Sounds like you have a copy.
The genuine Treg poly block on my Heaslip was red.
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The genuine Treg poly block on my Heaslip was red.
You're thinking of a Trigg coupling
http://www.triggbrs.com.au/catalogue/couplings/off-road-polyblock.html (http://www.triggbrs.com.au/catalogue/couplings/off-road-polyblock.html)
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Just went up the shed and checked ours, it has a red poly block ( about 10 years old ) and the car end is marked like this !
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The Treg on our old TrakShak (1997 model) looked like those, and the poly block was red.
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From what I can see it's a home made hitch, look at the weld quality. Barnray
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From what I can see it's a home made hitch...........
......and that home is probably in a country to our north........
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I've been on the TREG website and their 3 tonne jobbie looks very close to what i have...... ???
Never mind, all will be sorted out tomorrow...... one way or another. >:D
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I've been on the TREG website and their 3 tonne jobbie looks very close to what i have...... ???
Except for the colour...
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You're thinking of a Trigg coupling
http://www.triggbrs.com.au/catalogue/couplings/off-road-polyblock.html (http://www.triggbrs.com.au/catalogue/couplings/off-road-polyblock.html)
Just checked the red poly block:
SAE J684F
TREG (ie, the name is large on the block.)
S.A.
Ph 8352 5177
2270KG
Also, stamped on top of the vehicle end of the hitch:
TREG
S.A.
All of which reminds me, said red block AND vehicle connector are for sale - no use for them since fitting my OZ Hitch conversion
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Our Treg has a black poly block! Looks the same as on the website ;D Hope you get it sorted and glad you found it before it ended in disaster!
Cheers
L2GA
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Both my Treg & Trigg had red blocks.
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i was actually thinking of doing away with the 50mm ball coupling on our trailer as it restricts the real door on the Patrol opening. Think i'll go with something other than the polyblock option. Red, black , blue, which are genuine? Have they changed colours over the years. Red ones being older/ newer? Its got me a little confused.
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I think maybe by your invoice, they have just called the coupling a treg the same as some people just generalise 4x4s as jeeps.
My 03 Aussie swag has a black poly block with Treg SA stamped on it.
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I think maybe by your invoice, they have just called the coupling a treg the same as some people just generalise 4x4s as jeeps.
My 03 Aussie swag has a black poly block with Treg SA stamped on it.
That's my guess too. I'm sure I've seen ads calling a coupling a "Treg" because it has the same design as a real Treg - even though it is a knockoff. I wouldn't even be surprised if there's a "Treg" printed on it somewhere, cheeky though.
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i was actually thinking of doing away with the 50mm ball coupling on our trailer as it restricts the real door on the Patrol opening. Think i'll go with something other than the polyblock option. Red, black , blue, which are genuine? Have they changed colours over the years. Red ones being older/ newer? Its got me a little confused.
If you have trouble with rear door opening an OzHitch is your best option. (No affiliation, just a satisfied user.)
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If you have trouble with rear door opening an OzHitch is your best option. (No affiliation, just a satisfied user.)
Or if you really want to spend your money, a DO35.
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OK, heres what happened today.
1.
I spoke with Michael from TREG and emailed the pics through.
Michael was very helpful and informed me that IT WAS A CHEAP CHINESE hitch.
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Went to the workshop that supplied and fitted the hitch. they were shocked to see what had happened.
We went to the cattledog for the people that he ordered the hitch off. (NOT TREG DIRECT)
Yes, in the cattledog, its referred to as a TREGG hitch with the spelling including one extra G.
Another hitch has been ordered and will arrive tomorrow. The workshop is waiting to see if they get a genuine TREG or an imported piece of crap.
So no more news until tomorrow on that front.
The workshop offered to tilt tray the CT the 60 klm to their workshop, but after a discussion, they rewelded the fitting correctly and i went and got it and took it to their workshop.
I believe the workshop had no idea it wasn't the real McCoy, as neither did i. :-[
Just another good reason though, not buy stuff made as a cheap copy i guess.
Look for PART 3 tomorrow.... :D
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A lot of places will say Tregg "style" coupling.
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You can get two genuine polyblock types: a TREG (one G) which has a welded vehicle towbar attachment, or a TRIGG (two Gs) which has a cast steel vehicle towbar attachment. Both come from Adelaide suburbs and both are good, although I prefer the Trigg because the cast fitting seems to me to be better designed.
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This what was attached to my GIC trailer, there was no ADR approval stamped on it.
This crap should be illegal to sell unless it is stamped.
They do it with D shackles
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It doesn't look like my old Treg that I use to have on the Customline. It looks like a cheap copy. IMO
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At least the place you bought it off are doing the right thing by you so far.
Just out of interest, how old was the hitch mate? If it was only a couple of months old it's a pretty sobering thought to think what would have happened if you were driving down the road and it let go.
Cheers
Evo
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Evo, it was brand new in August 2012 and apart from the trip home from Gympie and some running around (maybe 80 klm tops), its only done 2 trips to Fraser island, which is just around the road a bit anyway.
If you added the lot up, less than 500 klm's to a failure.
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This is what my treg hitch looks like. Purchased mid last year, I think its the real thing. It better be! Has quite coarse thread on the car end that you can't see.
These people are putting people's lives at risk selling this cheap junk!
Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2
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Oops
Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2
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Wow shocking. Are they replacing it with a genuine treg? I know you said they have ordered another, but what happens if they bring in another copy? Are you paying for it?
Cheers
Evo
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Not a good thing to happen and lucky it was picked up in a controlled manner. Just wondering what they charged you for the hitch, maybe the cost could relate to the brand supplied. I have no idea what a genuine Tregg costs but it may answer a few questions.
GG
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When we got the camper (our first too, i might add) i didn't know a TREG from an Easter Egg, however, i'm learning and fast.
I'm far from happy that Foo Fung Shu, Suk Som Kum and Woo Flung Dung are producing such a crap product and a dead set copy to boot. Based on my hitch failure, in my opinion, someone will die or be hurt.... its a given really.
But let me say one more time, Michael from TREG was great in his knowledge etc.
It was obvious, had it of been his hitch, he was going move the earth to sort it out and quickly. :cheers:
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Yes Evo, it will be replaced by a genuine TREG, with no further cost to me in any way, shape or form. They are happy to deliver the trailer for me to home as well. (about 60klm)
We are waiting to see what their supplier sents them first, as it may be someone peddling crap or a simple mistake by someone taking the hitch from the wrong shelf.
I have checked with TREG direct and they do supply to the wholesaler that sold it to the workshop, so that was something...
I paid $396.00 for the hitch (with handbrake) and $44.00 for labour for the fit up when it was done last year.
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Sounds like your being looked after on all fronts which is good.
With the price you paid for it, the person who sold it to you, sold it as a genuine treg.
What surprises me is that they didnt pick it up as incorrect when they fitted it.
I hope for everyones sake that it was just a simple mix up, not someone dodgy trying to rip everyone off.
The average price the knockoffs go for is around the 100 mark.
On the upside, at least you found out, no one was hurt and its being rectified for you.
Cheers
Evo
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Well a good outcome,, and no damage done, that's the main thing,
seems i too have a Chinese copy, so i will be checking the weld on it also, I bet a lot of members here have a copy and don't know it,
So it's time to go check people...!!!!!!!!
Remember too,, not all of them are going to fail like Jeepers did,, have to admit it is the first one that has come to our attention.
But a good enough excuse to do some homework, just to be safe. ;D
BHG
PS. i will be emailing the person who sold me mine to... gunna get rite up him i am.. so watch out buddy. i'm gunna get ya >:( >:(
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Just wondering if your getting to keep the ring in ? If so i think I'd be forwarding it
to main roads or consumer affairs or the like, this is the type of crap that should be
removed from the market.
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Hey Jeepers
I have bee really impressed with the mature way you dealt with this. Nowadays most punters scream blue bloody murder and instantly dial a govt dept to help.
Kudos Lisa, kudos to you! ;D
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Ta Dazzler.
Mrs. Smith, the old one has to go back so the workshop can get a refund on it etc.
If it wasn't, i was gunna put it in the swaggers swap thread.... ;D Only Joking.
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I just looked at the wholesalers website and yes, they sure do have TREG hitches in stock and it looks to be the right thing.
I'm thinking, it may just be a mistake i got the wrong hitch.
Oh well, we'll all know the outcome tomorrow. 8)
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I've got a spare in the shed from when I converted to an OzHitch if you want it. It's definitely genuine. Only the car end. :cheers:
Thanks for the kind offer, but it looks like its getting sorted out ok and i didn't even have to throw any toys out of my cot.
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and i didn't even have to throw any toys out of my cot.
Well Mrs Jeepers will be even happier with that!!!!
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I just looked at the wholesalers website and yes, they sure do have TREG hitches in stock and it looks to be the right thing.
I'm thinking, it may just be a mistake i got the wrong hitch.
Oh well, we'll all know the outcome tomorrow. 8)
Good you are getting it sorted and yep think you went all the right chanels to get to here. Concerning though if it was a mistake that you got the WRONG hitch they are still selling those out of that wholesaler. Like you I knew nothing about the hitch's and ours doesnt have a brand on it so will be getting the BF to have a look at it.
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Terrible that you had this experience, absolutely sterling that you've been able to take some photos and publish it for the benefit of all.
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I think you will find the obvious difference with the treg and the trig hitch is on the treg the poly block is restricted from spinning a full rotation on the yoke where as the trig will spin all the way around - as far as the colour of the poly block would be where they get the urethene rubber from- from memory mackay rubber does red where as kelray does blue but neither here nor there both are good as each other, correct me if I am wrong as I use to work for a company that stocked both but that was over 10 years ago and I have had many drinks since then
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Just checked mine, she is genuine thank Fark for that :police:
Good result in the end though JC. I bet there are many swaggers are out in the shed checking right now ;D
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Just checked mine, she is genuine thank Fark for that :police:
Good result in the end though JC. I bet there are many swaggers are out in the shed checking right now ;D
Should've got an ozhitch :angel:
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I think you will find the obvious difference with the treg and the trig hitch is on the treg the poly block is restricted from spinning a full rotation on the yoke where as the trig will spin all the way around - as far as the colour of the poly block would be where they get the urethene rubber from- from memory mackay rubber does red where as kelray does blue but neither here nor there both are good as each other, correct me if I am wrong as I use to work for a company that stocked both but that was over 10 years ago and I have had many drinks since then
Nope you can't spin a trig either. I just tried mine tonight......
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This has been a great thread to make people go and check there hitches. I went and checked mine and it seems to be genuine with all SA markings on block and hitch.
Glad it is getting sorted for you jeepers in a professional manner, as it should.
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BHG
PS. i will be emailing the person who sold me mine to... gunna get rite up him i am.. so watch out buddy. i'm gunna get ya >:( >:(
:cup: :cup: I hope its alright mate !! - I don't want a " bad " email !! :cheers: :cheers: Mandrake
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Checked mine and yep, same as Jeepers hitch. Got me worried now.
Contacted Trigg at Forestville, the PB701-ASSY including bolt and nut for attaching to towbar (complete) $130
(http://www.triggbrs.com.au/images/catalogue/polyblock/POLYBLOCK.jpg)
Treg polycoupling complete with lynch pin and spring pin is $89.99
For the sake of $40 the Trigg looks a lot better quality.
Cheers, Marschy
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(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/figjam007/GEDC0172_zpsd1f6c099.jpg)
Sorry, but that looks home made, and then flogged on ebay. (not by you, *someone*)
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But the design of the Treg is not all that dissimilar.
My concern with either the knock-off or the genuine Treg is, if you spread too much Vegemite on your Weet-Bix (breakfast of champions) and get a little too carried away tightening up the nut, could the same thing occur to a genuine Treg?
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But the design of the Treg is not all that dissimilar
agree, but that *looks* cheap. the photo of the Tregg, looks worlds apart for strength.
Maybe its the "Supercheap" silver paint.
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But the design of the Treg is not all that dissimilar.
My concern with either the knock-off or the genuine Treg is, if you spread too much Vegemite on your Weet-Bix (breakfast of champions) and get a little too carried away tightening up the nut, could the same thing occur to a genuine Treg?
Treg have been around making trailers and associated parts since 1947 and I have never heard of one of their genuine hitches failing at all.
I had a custom offroad trailer made by them and I took photos of every stage of the build and their quality and attention to detail is astounding.
Every bolt from every manufacturer could be susceptable to over tightenening in the same way - I wouldn't be singling out Treg.
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Not knocking the quality of Treg, but the Trigg design is better in my opinion. There is less likely hood of failure with the Trigg design due to the fact that the bolt and the coupling are not welded together.
My understanding as well is the Trigg design has ADR approval, but after a visit to Treg's premises 2 minutes ago, they are not ADR compliant as there is no stamping on the coupling to indicate it is. Having said that it is a lot better quality than my Chinese knockoff.
I will visit Trigg tomorrow to see for myself if their couplings are ADR compliant.
Cheers, Marschy
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Checked mine and yep, same as Jeepers hitch. Got me worried now.
Contacted Trigg at Forestville, the PB701-ASSY including bolt and nut for attaching to towbar (complete) $130
(http://www.triggbrs.com.au/images/catalogue/polyblock/POLYBLOCK.jpg)
Treg polycoupling complete with lynch pin and spring pin is $89.99
For the sake of $40 the Trigg looks a lot better quality.
Cheers, Marschy
Yep, thats what mine looks like. Gusseted sides and strong as all heck.
Doubt I'll have a problem with it. Certainly worth paying for.
Great articulation, strong and absolutely no reason to buy anything else (for me anyway)
Sound a bit like all the ARB gear I've got...............
Is DON is GOOD!!!!
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Yep same as what came with the camper I bought, Trigg Hitch
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Not knocking the quality of Treg, but the Trigg design is better in my opinion. There is less likely hood of failure with the Trigg design due to the fact that the bolt and the coupling are not welded together.
My understanding as well is the Trigg design has ADR approval, but after a visit to Treg's premises 2 minutes ago, they are not ADR compliant as there is no stamping on the coupling to indicate it is. Having said that it is a lot better quality than my Chinese knockoff.
I will visit Trigg tomorrow to see for myself if their couplings are ADR compliant.
Cheers, Marschy
So is the receiver(poly block) etc ADR compliant and the coupling (Towbar side) not?
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So is the receiver(poly block) etc ADR compliant and the coupling (Towbar side) not?
Towbar side definitely not. Don't know about the poly block side, but I suspect they are, probably AS4177.6. The towbar side is stamped with '3000KG' but to the best of my knowledge that doesn't indicate ADR compliance.
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yeah thanks mate, my poly block has adr markings but the coupling doesnt anywhere i could see, either you would think that they would hane to get it complied as a kit ( so to speak)
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Looking at the Trigg web site I can't make out from the photo's of their coupling if they are compliant. The web page description is a bit ambiguous, so I'll duck out there tomorrow to have a look. I can't tell from the ADR website I found if the coupling even needs to be compliant, I'll ask a few questions when I get there.
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Well boys and girls......
The trailer is home again with a gen-ewe-ine TREG hitch.
Its got TREG stamped on both main parts, on the poly blog and has the sticker as well and looks way better than what i had.
The workshop had a turn around time of 25 hours from when the trailer arrived to when i was informed it was finished.
They offered to deliver, but i said i'd go and get it, as they'd done a great job and i didn't want to be seen to be hanging them out to dry.
The old one is on its way back to the wholesaler for them to deal with.
So, 10 out of 10 to TREG for the assistance and info.
Also, 10 out of 10 to Cooloola New Age Mechanical in Gympie for getting everything sorted as fast as they did. They were an innocent party like myself to a wrongly supplied hitch.
Now, i'm gunna give myself 10 out of 10 too, because i proved to myself, if you think before running off half cocked, you get way further in this sort of situation.
The only down side is, i wonder how many imported trailers "COULD" have hitch's fitted that are no better than what i had?
Makes ya think huh.
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3000kg stamped on it?
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But the design of the Treg is not all that dissimilar.
My concern with either the knock-off or the genuine Treg is, if you spread too much Vegemite on your Weet-Bix (breakfast of champions) and get a little too carried away tightening up the nut, could the same thing occur to a genuine Treg?
No Marschy, on a TREG, the threaded section is wound into a thread cut in the hole of the hitch reciever, so the weld is simply there to stop in winding back out from vibration etc.
On a chinese junk one, they drill a hole, poke the threaded bit in and weld it from the top, so the weld or lack there of, is all thats stands between you and disaster.
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3000kg stamped on it?
Yeah baby...... ;D
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Scary stuff. I've convinced the missus that our CT is not leaving the driveway until I've got this sorted.
One thing for sure, this POS is not going back on the towbar.
(http://gallery.myswag.org/gallery/d/44129-2/Coupling.jpg)
Can't tell if it's threaded, ain't gunna wait to find out the hard way.
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Mine has no adr markings on the receiver end only on the poly block itself. I would like to think that to comply with adr's, all the components of the hitch would need to comply but they only put the numbers on the block itself to save labour of stamping adr numbers onto every part
Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2
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Mine has no adr markings on the receiver end only on the poly block itself. I would like to think that to comply with adr's, all the components of the hitch would need to comply but they only put the numbers on the block itself to save labour of stamping adr numbers onto every part
Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2
Turbo i would think that is a good enough excuse to convince the Minister for Finance that a new camper is needed. ;D
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Turbo i would think that is a good enough excuse to convince the Minister for Finance that a new camper is needed. ;D
Haha I think she's onto me with them excuses. Problem is she's smarter than me! ;D
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The only down side is, i wonder how many imported trailers "COULD" have hitch's fitted that are no better than what i had?
Makes ya think huh.
[Hope there saftey chains are of better quality.]
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The only down side is, i wonder how many imported trailers "COULD" have hitch's fitted that are no better than what i had?
Makes ya think huh.
Also makes me wonder about the grade of that said bolt....what shear strength etc???
Huge disaster potential there glad to see its been brought to everyones attention :cup:
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mine looks the same nothing stamped, could i get it welded to the tow toungue for peace of mind ??
cheers
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I'm ditching mine. If it fails when your on the road you'll end up with a bill bigger than $89.99 or $130.
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Come on every one, I realise $ are scarce these days but a tow hitch is up there in priority along with tyres, brakes and steering components. So as per my earlier (admittedly slightly tongue in cheek) post, why not just forget these poly block style couplings & get a modern off road one: mchitch, ozhitch, alko, DO35V2, etc are all far superior to the trusty treg/trigg. It's progress. If it ain't broke don't fix it (ie if you have a genuine product all is good) but if you unfortunately have a fake then why change to the same when a more modern product has all pro's and no con's in comparison?
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I tow my CT behind a Ford Facoln XR6. I have no need for a fancy and expensive full off road hitch. A better coupling will do the job just fine for me,
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Marschy, have you ever used one? I reckon even if I never went off road I would get a DO35 instead of a 50mm ball, such is the ease of use. Granted poly block couplings are easier to use with practice, but if you are towing behind an XR6 why have a poly block in the first place? Not trying to be argumentative, merely trying to emphasise how good new style couplings are to those who have not physically used them.
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It came on the camper
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It came on the camper
I am an idiot. This fact was obvious from the moment I posted the previous comment. Anyways, I am now guilty of derailing a relevant topic and my lame attempts at humour are not adding to the thread.
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Just as a point guys, i know jeeps found a huge flaw in his hitch that could have had deadly implications.
But my point now is that if the quality of the receiver was so bad why would you only change that part?
Surely the whole lot would be just as bad?
I dont know about you guys but if I was in the position where i had such a poor quality hitch i would be changing the whole lot. If I didnt have enough for a quality off road one spare i would certainly be changing it for a quality ball type. Im fairly certain that you can get those for as little as $100 for an alko one?
Cheers
Evo
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If the poly hitch has AS4177.6 markings on it, should there be any cause for concern about the quality of the poly hitch?
Not being a smart arise, this is the same AS standard I had on a dual axle boat trailer with hydraulic override brakes.
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I know where your coming from mate, but call me a sceptical bugger...
I dont know if I would trust it. Its not that hard to stamp a number into metal.
Crikey, you should see what they are doing with knock off golf clubs these days.
Cheers
Evo
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The AS number is part of the casting. My understanding of AS standards is limited but I would have thought that fraudulent AS Standard markings on a trailer coupling would likely be big news by now.
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After the recent Adelaide caravan show, it was bought to my attention that a supposed "Aussie built trailer" was using a non compliment coupling (I know this as we too were given a friendly warning) so as a company we have decided to move to a genuine Aussie hitch. Treg/trigg. And seeing this story and passing this info on to the boss, it reassures our decision. Glad it was sorted quickly and thanks for passing the info on
Cheers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The pics of the Chinese knock offs, look as though they're made from a weld on spring hanger and a piece of angle.
Probably just a mild steel bolt with the head cut off it too.
Any one with an Aussie built one, does the attaching bolt/stud have a shank where it locates in the tongue, or is it threaded the entire way?
Shane.
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Looks like I have one of these too and I was just going to replace it but it is welded on to my drawbar. Can I safely attack it with angle grinder. I thought they were supposed to be bolted on >:(
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Also, 10 out of 10 to Cooloola New Age Mechanical in Gympie for getting everything sorted as fast as they did. They were an innocent party like myself to a wrongly supplied hitch.
I have used these guys a couple of times, and I am yet to hear any one have a bad word to say about them......Rare for a mechanic shop in this day and age.
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I don't want to question the integrity of the two companies (retailer and wholesaler) Jeepers has been dealing with BUT I can't come up with an explanation of how a retailer that thought they were selling quality, oz made couplings supplied by a wholesaler who also thought they were selling quality, oz made couplings managed to get the poor quality copy into their inventory. The only way I can picture this happening is if they (either the retailer or the wholesaler, or both) sold a full separate range of the knock offs and managed to "cross contaminate" the product delivered to the customer. I can't imagine they would have a single "knock off" just floating around that found it's way onto Jeepers trailer by mistake.
I am happy to have my thoughts disproven because I don't wont to muddy Jeeper's suppliers names, they appear to have looked after him really good, something which should be applauded even though must of us would like to think it should be the norm.
Peter H
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It is curious isn't it, the knockoff is hard to mistake for the real deal.
Inexperienced storeperson perhaps. Having said that I work in wholesale distribution, our storeroom pickers are given instructions to go to shelf xyz and pick product abc which is barcoded, so this type of mistake can't happen. Doesn't mean this wholesaler has the same quality control though.
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Looks like I have one of these too and I was just going to replace it but it is welded on to my drawbar. Can I safely attack it with angle grinder. I thought they were supposed to be bolted on >:(
Sounds as though it had already failed. Is the bolt still on the coupling?
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There is A LOT of these Chinese knock off poly block couplings getting around, I am surprised there hasn't been a documented serious accident due to one. I guess safety chains have been doing their job!
Its not only the fully imported ebay style trailer you see these on, I have seen them on a quality Aussie made trailer when I had a tour through his workshop once. In fact his trailers were made really nice yet everything that was bolted to them was imported unless the customer suggested otherwise which isnt really a problem with the majority of things, tent included, but when it comes to wheels, suspension and hitch I think its important that they meet an Australian Standard.
You cant even register a trailer (if the inspector is doing his job properly) in Tassie using a hitch that doesn't have the AS number or ADR number on it somewhere and that is supposed to be Australia wide so I done know how these people get them passed.
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Sounds as though it had already failed. Is the bolt still on the coupling?
sorry marschy should have made it clearer. Its the part on the draw bar and it welded from the factory. I have just emailed the manufacturer to ask for suggestions as to how I go about replacing it. Wonder what their reply will be
[/quote][/quote]
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I've been doing a bit of reading on ADR62/02 which covers couplings for trailers with maximum rating up to 3500kg. My coupling does not comply. The markings on it are
AS4177.3
2000kg
50mm
60
The standard for AS4177.3 states
A coupling body complying with AS 4177.3 must be marked with:
• the manufacturer's name or trademark; doesn't have this
• the mark ‘50’;
• the maximum rating for the coupling body in one of the following, as applicable,
– 750 kg; or
– 2000 kg; or
– 3500 kg;
• a code to indicate the serial number, batch, production date, or similar; doesn't have this
• the words ‘DO NOT WELD’ if the coupling body is manufactured from non weldable materials; doesn't have this
• the words ‘WELD ONLY’ if the coupling body is specifically designed to be attached by welding only. doesn't have this
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Here is some interesting reading...........
http://www.mchitch.com.au/adr.html (http://www.mchitch.com.au/adr.html)
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A coupling body complying with AS 4177.3 must be marked with:
• the manufacturer's name or trademark; doesn't have this
• the mark ‘50’;
• the maximum rating for the coupling body in one of the following, as applicable,
– 750 kg; or
– 2000 kg; or
– 3500 kg;
• a code to indicate the serial number, batch, production date, or similar; doesn't have this
• the words ‘DO NOT WELD’ if the coupling body is manufactured from non weldable materials; doesn't have this
• the words ‘WELD ONLY’ if the coupling body is specifically designed to be attached by welding only. doesn't have this
I would say many would fail to pass in this case.
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Does a normal every day 50mm hayman reese ball have all those markings on it? On the bolt in ball part itself? Surely it would have to to be compliant also? Don't own one so can't check but would be interested to know
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Does a normal every day 50mm hayman reese ball have all those markings on it? On the bolt in ball part itself? Surely it would have to to be compliant also? Don't own one so can't check but would be interested to know
My understanding is that the markings are required on the trailer coupling, not the ball.
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Aust standards states that it should be stamped on both parts of the hitch so I would assume it's the same for a ball
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Thanks to this thread I've just bought a McHitch for $100, :) I wonder how much I can get for my Chinese hitch??
Jokes
Now my only worry is if my Chinese trailer will fall off and leave the hitch behind, although it has had considerable modifications to the underside.
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Taken from Australian standards
Question is what do you do if you have been sold one that doesn't comply
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Just curious how its been determined the crook ones are Chinese made?
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Cause they all look the same
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I've been doing a bit of reading on ADR62/02 which covers couplings for trailers with maximum rating up to 3500kg. My coupling does not comply. The markings on it are
AS4177.3
2000kg
50mm
60
The standard for AS4177.3 states
AS4177.3 is for 50mm Ball coupling bodies only. No application to poly blocks as far as I can see. will look further.
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Here is the relavant document, ADR 62/02. The AS4177.3 apply to 50mm ball couplings only. Other coupling types are adressed in this ADR.
http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2010C00153 (http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2010C00153)
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It also makes mention of other couplings apart from 50mm ball for AS 4177.3 but is very scant on details. You will also note that the Trigg website refers to AS 4177.3 for all their trailer couplings
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Cause they all look the same
LOL... That's funny.
Probably very politically incorrect, but very funny!
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Hmm, here's a Question for you all.
How many of the Chinese, knock of, come copied Hitches are there in use.?....
How many have failed that we know of..? ( 1 that i am now aware of )
. so. for arguments sake, lets say there's 2000 in use.. 1 has failed............... trouble is i'm no good at math's.... 8)
But 1 in 2000, does not seem to bad to me...........
Not saying that makes it ok.!
But the odd's are there,,
Sure there's a week point, Jeepers found it.. so we can check now,,
Every manufacturer has a certain amount that fails the test.. or one or 2 can slip thru the system from time to time..
If someone posted about a Treg failing. would we all go out and buy another brand.? i doubt it..
Anyway.. fire away, shoot me down.... ;D
BHG
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Seriously though, the salesman at Treg indicated that the copies of their product are originating in China and they are giving them grief.
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Thanks to this thread I've just bought a McHitch for $100, :) I wonder how much I can get for my Chinese hitch??
Jokes
Now my only worry is if my Chinese trailer will fall off and leave the hitch behind, although it has had considerable modifications to the underside.
Yeah, going to do something similar and get an Ozhitch conversion for my poly coupling
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I don't want to question the integrity of the two companies (retailer and wholesaler) Jeepers has been dealing with BUT I can't come up with an explanation of how a retailer that thought they were selling quality, oz made couplings supplied by a wholesaler who also thought they were selling quality, oz made couplings managed to get the poor quality copy into their inventory. The only way I can picture this happening is if they (either the retailer or the wholesaler, or both) sold a full separate range of the knock offs and managed to "cross contaminate" the product delivered to the customer. I can't imagine they would have a single "knock off" just floating around that found it's way onto Jeepers trailer by mistake.
I am happy to have my thoughts disproven because I don't wont to muddy Jeeper's suppliers names, they appear to have looked after him really good, something which should be applauded even though must of us would like to think it should be the norm.
Peter H
Lets see....
Jeepers goes in to workshop and orders a TREG hitch.
Workshop orders in a TREG hitch from a wholesaler who sells lots of different hitches.
Person working at wholesaler picks up wrong hitch from shelf and sends it to the workshop.
Workshop has hitch arrive and office girl tells workshop foreman or mechanic the part is here.
Workshop mechanic goes into office to get hitch for Jeepers camper trailer and fits hitch.
Jeepers, because at this point wouldn't know a TREG from an Easter Egg, pays the account and heads off to go camping.
How easy is that.
Sure, it is a series of blunders and maybe the workshop should've picked up on the fact they had the wrong hitch.. maybe not.
But the main thing is, it was sorted and sorted quickly and i'm now a happy camper. ;D
Congrates to those who are changing hitches too.
As far as the 1 in 2000 failure thought, it could be even more, like 1 in 10,000... who knows.. not me, thats for sure.
But i cant help but think, if one was welded so poorly, there has be others.
If you about to jump out of a plane in a parachute and you got told it was made by the same place that made my dud hitch,
Would you still jump?
If your answer is yes, then don't change your hitch.
If you wouldn't jump, than get a new hitch.
If we get to the national meet later this year, we'll be the folks with the new shiney gold TREG hitch with a trailer still connected to it. ;D
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i too will not be on the road till i get a proper one, life is to short to play with ones own or other peoples lives. The importer should recall all hitches as other reputable companys do. just my bit
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Well if i get to the national...
I'll be the baldheaded bloke with the Chinese camper attached to the Chinese poly block hitch.. ;D
But my point was,,,
If it's Ausie made... and it failed.. due to poor workmanship or quality of material.. would you react the same...
BHG
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Oh,, and in reply to jumping out of a plane... Why.?
Why would you want to jump out of a perfectly good plane.?? :D ;D
I certainly wont be.. :cheers:
BHG
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if an aussie on failed there are laws which require a recall , maybe iam wrong
we all have freedom of choice, iam thinking of a MacHitch conversion as the are made just up the road, :cheers:
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:cup:
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Theres a national meet later this year?
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There aren't any imitation DO35's out there......yet......
(This is not meant to derail the discussion, merely a follow up to an earlier alternative point of view)
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Cause they all look the same
;D ;D ;D Made me laugh!
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Those that turn up at National with only a polly block sticking out the back will be inducted to the Knock Off Club :cup:
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The Australian Standards:
AS 4177.1-2004
Caravan and light trailer towing components - Towbars and towing brackets
AS 4177.1-2004/Amdt 1-2006
Caravan and light trailer towing components - Towbars and towing brackets
AS 4177.1-2004/Amdt 2-2006
Caravan and light trailer towing components - Towbars and towing brackets
AS 4177.2-2004
Caravan and light trailer towing components - 50 mm towballs
AS 4177.3-2004
Caravan and light trailer towing components - Coupling body for ball couplings
AS 4177.4-2004
Caravan and light trailer towing components - Safety chains up to 3500 kg capacity
AS 4177.4-2004/Amdt 1-2006
Caravan and light trailer towing components - Safety chains up to 3500 kg capacity
AS 4177.5-2004
Caravan and light trailer towing components - Electrical connectors
So none of the specialised hitches (except the Hyland, which uses a ball) are covered by any part of AS4177 - they only have to comply with Section 12 of ADR62-02. For marking that means they have to show the makers name or trademark and the maximum load rating (ATM), together with a reference to the mating component. Any other information is at the discretion of the manufacturer.
By the way, the existance of an Australian Standard does not mean that it has to be complied with - the standard has to be specifically referenced in legislation to make compliance mandatory.
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- they only have to comply with Section 12 of ADR62-02.
Correct. When I registered my CT the inspection man spent an hour making phone calls because he was certain my Mchitch didnt comply! In the mean time I rang Mchitch and he explained it too me in detail. The inspection man was getting confused with a ball coupling.
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The inspection man was getting confused with a ball coupling.
What hope do we have then!!
You and Pipeliner at least have a good understanding.
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AS4177.3 is for 50mm Ball coupling bodies only. No application to poly blocks as far as I can see. will look further.
Where does that leave those with 50mm balls almost as old as they are?
If your ball/s pre-date the ADR are you still allowed to use them?
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Okay , Im official over the whole thing. If there is an Aus standard that dosent need to be complied with WHY F@#%$#G Bother!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Okay , Im official over the whole thing. If there is an Aus standard that dosent need to be complied with WHY F@#%$#G Bother!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ADR62-02 has AS within it. My understanding is that ADR is bigger than AS, hence the AS's are within ADR's. So by complying with ADR62-02 you are in fact complying with certain AS's. Clear? LOL ;)
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As mud
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Just some useless trivia, the TRIGG Bros make the TRIGG Hitch, now only one brother, after a family argument one brother left and now makes the TREG Hitch.
Both Hitches work on either the TRIGG or TREG Poly block :cup:
I have a TRIGG Hitch on the car and a TREG Polly Block on the trailer.
Baz.
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Well my GIC has one of these knock offs has done vice high country twice ans travelled about 6000 km. initially I was concerned when this thread appeared. Ive inspected it and mine is welded top and base of bolt and no signs of fatigue or cracks. The attachment in the camper has 2000kg 50 as4177.3 and a dd number ( 4 digits I think). I think mine gas proved itself
Cheers
Frank
Cheers
Frank
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The attachment in the camper has 2000kg 50 as4177.3 and a dd number ( 4 digits I think). I think mine gas proved itself
Just had a look at AS4177.3 - The scope states " This standard specifies requirements for coupling bodies for ball couplings suitable for use with 50mm towballs complying with AS4177.2, for trailers & caravans up to 3.5T ATM, for use on public roads".
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Yeah I've read that a few times in this thread. Camper was blue slipped and passed at Rego on initial inspection
Cheers
Frank
Cheers
Frank
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(http://assets.diylol.com/hfs/ca4/cbe/ba5/resized/business-dog-meme-generator-we-re-just-going-around-in-circles-here-goddam-tail-13f253.jpg)
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Indeed we are my friend.! :cheers:
Agree to disagree.?
your shout.
I'll af arv........... :cheers: :angel:
BHG
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But my point was,,,
If it's Ausie made... and it failed.. due to poor workmanship or quality of material.. would you react the same...
BHG
When i was still thinking i had a TREG, i was thinking i would be requesting an X-ray of the new part or some sort of assurance before it would go back on the Jeep.
I guess BHG, at least with a TREG, should it ever fail, i can speak with someone in the workshop where it is made.
That just can't happen with a chinese version of it.
But i suppose, until it happens, i don't really know.
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Ok beer o'clock :cheers:
BHG
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Just ordered an Ozhitch conversion for my poly coupling. Should be here next week.
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Think Norm might have had a run of them as a result of this thread..
I ordered one aswell.. I was planning to anyway but figured I better order before everyone else did :)
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You will also note that the Trigg website refers to AS 4177.3 for all their trailer couplings
Actually they don't. They refer to AS4177.3 compliance on their home page since the majority of their products are 50mm ball type, but the Polyblock coupling page refers only to the ADR.
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Now that the hitch/couplings have been done to death do you think we should be asking questions to our suppliers about the 3500 Kg rated safety chains from China ?
Mine look pretty big and chunky but don't have any stamping on them .... Mandrake ( Opening another can of different worms )
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Actually they don't.
In relationship to their 'couplings', actually, they do.
More about out TRAILER COUPLINGS & COMPONENTS (http://www.triggbrs.com.au/trailer-couplings-omponents.html)
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Now that the hitch/couplings have been done to death do you think we should be asking questions to our suppliers about the 3500 Kg rated safety chains from China ?
Mine look pretty big and chunky but don't have any stamping on them .... Mandrake ( Opening another can of different worms )
The chains have to be stamped before the trailer can have rego. Plenty of people get caught here in Tasmania buying trailers from the main land and having to cut the new chain off and replacing it with the correct one.
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how deep are we going to dig this well, :cheers:
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how deep are we going to dig this well, :cheers:
Till we get to China.....?
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take my hitch with you, i will have a Treg here monday and be off tuesday on the first trip with the ;D
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TREG's paying me a spotters fee too, did i mention that.... ;D
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TREG's paying me a spotters fee too, did i mention that.... ;D
Yeah, but I bet the sale of DO35's, Ozhitches, etc have shot up in the last few days.......... ;D ;D
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Yeah, but I bet the sale of DO35's, Ozhitches, etc have shot up in the last few days.......... ;D ;D
Yeah, it was a contributing factor to yesterday's purchase of a McHitch at the Caravan and Camping Show. I've always liked the look of them. The previous owners of the camper I just bought bent the bolt on the (genuine) Treg 'C' bracket. They were unable to quickly source a new Treg bracket so purchased an entire imported assembly and only used the bracket (they gave me the brand new trailer section as well). After reading this thread, I checked the C bracket and imagined the mess if it failed at speed. I then spied the 2 tonne McHitch at $169 and it was (surprisingly for me) a quick decision. :cheers:
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Good choice. I reckon the McHitch is the best value coupling on the market.
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Getting a little O/T but I'm still impressed by the no-nonsense simplicity and toughness of the Hyland. There's nothing to drop or lose and no itty-bitty bearings or finely-machined components to give trouble in dust or mud
(http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/ii518/GTCampers/IMG_7853_zpsc1b5f13f.jpg)
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The hitch might be good, but how good is the padlock they've got on the chain?
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The padlock on the Oz hitch (or any hitch for that matter) is only good when the CT is off the vehicle. When it's attached to the vehicle, all you need to circumvent the padlock is a shifter spanner to remove the hitch towbar coupling, and your done for.
What someone needs to come up with is a means of securing the towbar coupling as well as the hitch pin.
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take my hitch with you, i will have a Treg here monday and be off tuesday on the first trip with the ;D
That's gold! :cup: :cup: :cup:
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Getting a little O/T but I'm still impressed by the no-nonsense simplicity and toughness of the Hyland. There's nothing to drop or lose and no itty-bitty bearings or finely-machined components to give trouble in dust or mud
(http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/ii518/GTCampers/IMG_7853_zpsc1b5f13f.jpg)
If I didn't have a DO35 (for ease of hook-up and sheer impressiveness), I'd have a Hyland for reasons above.
Completely O/T, but meh.
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Mchitch wont let go ....thats bent the towbar up and over into the boot and gone well past 180 deg rotation at 80Kp/h impact. Hitch still attached to pin. So the factory towbar mounts sheared before the hitch let go..Very happy with the investment and now have thses hitches on every trailer I own.
Don't muck arount with hiches ..is my 2c worth
Jet ;D
Edit- before anyone asks cause I know they will YES the trailer was within towning specs for that commodore/lexen .Police checked all that out trust me as he caused $$$$$ damage to 4 cars so insurance was looking for a way out . but all good and within specs. ;D
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Ouch!
FWIW, I think this thread highlights the fact that most people are serious about safety, however as with other areas of product supply, they don't always get what they pay for even if the intention is there
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Aust standards states that it should be stamped on both parts of the hitch so I would assume it's the same for a ball
You have hit on the magic word in your post that being "should"
For a citation (the section of the Legislation to be enforced) there must be a positive commitment to do that the statement must contain Will, Shall or Must.
An Australian standard is not law unless it is "called up" meaning referenced in an act, or regulation. If it is not called up it is an example of best practice methodology only. And while you do not legally have to follow it your method or product would have to be either the same or better than the requirments in the standard.
So while the coupling in the first post is not up to scratch it is not technically illegal
As for it being a Tregg hitch when it is not this is simply a product or more in this case a style of product becoming popular or the norm. If a company was using genuine Tregg hitches and wanted to advertise this they should put Tregg hitch with the restricted logo or better yet the copy of the trademark number on it
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Jet, I remember when you posted that thread and it impressed me, but when Jeepers mentioned that the hitch failed I found a McHitch 3500kg with handbrake 2nd hand for $100, only problem it doesn't match the holes from my Chinese one.
Now I have never had any problems with my poly block hitch and it has done plenty on kms and some articulation with no concerns, but it was a good excuse to convince the minister of war that we needed to upgrade.
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I had a d035 for many years before this and it performed very well also. We are lucky to have so many good quality manuf in aust.
But the ball hitch is still legal and widely used but I have no doubt would have let go in that circumstance I went away from the ball hitch to minimise stress on the trailer when towing to Weipa as previous trailer used to rattle and make not so nice noises , once the off road hitch was used it eliminated a lot of the transferred vibration into the trailer.
One thing I see a lot of and is in no way a critisim is the use of padlocks in place of rated shackels on the safety chains. As per pic above I too used to do this until I saw the result . I now tow with d shackels and then swap to padlocks when at boat ramp.
Great thread as it has highlighted some safety issues would hate to see a trip or life ruined due to people not knowing about it.
Jet :cheers:
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Does it have a red poly block.
It looks identical to the hitch you find on any imported camper.
The one I had was attached to my GIC camper. It was not ADR approved. I replaced it a week after purchase with a standard 50mm ball coupling from Repco.
I think you will find it will be the same POS "trek hitch" flooding the market.
Rob
Good move Rob, I was on a trip in the Flinders and I saw a hitch off a GIC actually break. The coupling on the tow bar tongue snapped clean off and the trailer dropped into the chains.
Cheers
Rich
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Hey jetcrew, you have had both the DO35 and the McHitch. Which is best? Come on mate, spill. I need an honest opinion before parting with my hard earned.
KB
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Damn forum costing me money ahh well all in the name of trust and safety
Cheers
Frank
Cheers
Frank
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Hey jetcrew, you have had both the DO35 and the McHitch. Which is best? Come on mate, spill. I need an honest opinion before parting with my hard earned.
KB
My bad everyone I had the previous AT35 not DO , had to many things in my head.
I was very happy with that hitch for many years but then it flogged out after a lot of corros but this hitch did some work..when I went to replace it I discovered the manufact no longer made mechanical override hitches and wanted $400 to source one for me out of a few things still around the workshop..so I started to research and did purchase an oz hitch but was not satisfied and returned it.
Then got onto mchitch and was very impressed. The quality of finish and materials used is first class. I think it is bit like Nissan v Toyota . Engle v waeco etc each to their own and I am certainly not qualified to say one is better than the others just because I bought x . My advice if you can have a good look at the hitches in the flesh some are way ahead of others , price is important also and function . But I think the 2 you are choosing between are both top shelf :D
Obv after dads little mishap it def made my mind up that I had purchased well and I like the no grease on any part and no bushes being worn all stainless and galvanised as well as the quality of the materials . Price of mchitch is very good too and when I opened up all the boxes I felt that I had a quality product for the $$ spent.
I know that response is a bit like Switzerland but I hate it when someone says x is best just because they have one. Compare the 2 on price etc and one will stand out also have a look at extra parts prices
Hope your suitably confused now lol :D ;D
Jet :cheers:
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Damn forum costing me money ahh well all in the name of trust and safety
Cheers
Frank
Cheers
Frank
Damn it, now I'm thinking.
I'm gathering seeing that I've got electric brakes, the 2 tonne box trailer coupling would be suffice? My camper has a load rating of 1500kg. Mine currently just has a standard 3 bolt (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/11/yqe3ygyp.jpg). $149 that the McHitch is advertised for seems cheap.
Cheers
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I know this thread is not a "what hitch is best" discussion, but in light of the fact that a few people are checking their poly blocks to see if they are the real deal and then trying to swap them etc it is relevant to ask if you are going to change why not go for a more modern design? Think of it like comparing leaf springs to coils in 4wd's: one has been around forever, tough as nails and easy to repair. But the other is way more.comfortable and gives better susp travel, and after riding on coils you never go back to leaf springs. Same applies to hitches: nothing wrong with poly block style, they were the first style sold in significant numbers that I am aware of, but they have been superceded by more modern designs. And the 2 mentioned appear to be just as tough.
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Marcus looking at yours is it maybe possible that the 2 bolts for your handbrake and the front 2 hitch bolts are the ones to hook up for an override hitch .
Cheers
Frank
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Marcus looking at yours is it maybe possible that the 2 bolts for your handbrake and the front 2 hitch bolts are the ones to hook up for an override hitch .
Cheers
Frank
Thanks for the response, but I'm gathering that I'm not needing the override hitch due to having electric brakes.... Correct??
I'm in the learning phase with all of this hitch stuff, so bare with me :)
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Yep agreed if u have electric brakes then yeah no need for the override setup. Wasn't sure which way your were leaning. My camper has both electric and override so made my decision very easy.
Edit:
I seen the one you talking about for 149 and yes I noticed the 3 bolts on the bottom of the hitch plate. Suppose now is as good a time as ever to make up ya mind. Mine was made up yesterday arvo when the above post of a GIC hitch failing. That's enough convincing for me even though mine may never fail
Cheers
Frank
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got my stamped 3000kg TREG today as promised so Iam a hap;py chappy
stay safe stay cool :cheers:
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McHitch now fitted. :cheers:
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The McHitch looks a solid piece of work, but it would be no use for me (and lots of others) because it stands too high and would prevent me opening the rear door of the Jeep - I have to have a high towbar position to allow the Odyssey to be horizontal whilst towing. That's one reason why I love the DO35, because of it's low profile.
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And now I too have been McHitched Lol
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/12/de5apy5y.jpg)
Cheers
Frank
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Is the uni joint on the mchitch a normal everyday uni joint with needle bearings?
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Is the uni joint on the mchitch a normal everyday uni joint with needle bearings?
Yes it is Dazzler. It's a Landcruiser uni
Cheers
Frank
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....... It's a Landcruiser uni.......
I see a problem right there......... >:D
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I see a problem right there......... >:D
Oohhhh I never lol ????????
Cheers
Frank
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I see a problem right there......... >:D
Only for Nissan drivers >:D
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I see a problem right there......... >:D
(http://omahanightlife.com/images/1/media/2010/03/02/lg_PC692_LMAO.jpg)
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I am contemplating putting on a poly block bought through my trailer supplier. Cost is about $100 for the car bracket included..
$4-500 for the trigg and treg hitches??? Not sure how much i could get one for in vic..
But my question is has anyone bought and used one of these $100 hitches and have they been ok?? Or has the poly block failed..
Everything else i have bought from my cheap trailer wholesaler s has been great.. But a little nervous about the poly block hitch after my poly failure in my control arm bushes in my cruiser..
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Been a bit of discussion on this recently. Have a search.
The upshot was (roughly) don't buy a cheapie. Stick with GENUINE name brands.
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I am contemplating putting on a poly block bought through my trailer supplier. Cost is about $100 for the car bracket included..
$4-500 for the trigg and treg hitches??? Not sure how much i could get one for in vic..
But my question is has anyone bought and used one of these $100 hitches and have they been ok?? Or has the poly block failed..
Everything else i have bought from my cheap trailer wholesaler s has been great.. But a little nervous about the poly block hitch after my poly failure in my control arm bushes in my cruiser..
Spend the money on the real thing mate. There is plenty of the cheap ones failing. If you use the search function on here you will find a recent thread where one failed with pictures etc to illustrate the problem.
You are towing $1000s of $$$ of trailer with $1000 of dollars worth of vehicle. Don't scrimp on the bit in the middle.
Jas
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I replaced my genuine Treg poly block with an adaptor to fit an OzHitch. Absolutely the best mod going, the OzHitch is so much easier to connect than the Treg. :cup:
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Most $100 hitches are not ADR approved, which = Nil insurance if there is an incident, not to mention any personal injury which could occur.
For $400-500 an DO-35 or Ozhitch would be a far better option IMO.
:cheers: Heiny
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Just for the record i did try searching.. Sorry..
I will try again and look for the broken poly block..
Thanks
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http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=28350.0 (http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=28350.0)
This should be what you need to read.
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Yep, i just read through that thanks..
Mchitch is certainly affordable.. How much are those do 35s??
Theya re looking good..
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Yep, i just read through that thanks..
Mchitch is certainly affordable.. How much are those do 35s??
Theya re looking good..
DO-35
$356.58 V2-R
$396.46 V2I (Integrated Handbrake)
http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/shop/hitchmaster/hitchmaster-do35 (http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/shop/hitchmaster/hitchmaster-do35)
:cheers: Heiny
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Those mchitch end look ike they might be trouble reversing..
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Ok i am convinced.. This is what i will have to get..
http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/shop/hitchmaster/hitchmaster-do35/hitchmaster-do35-v2i-detail (http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/shop/hitchmaster/hitchmaster-do35/hitchmaster-do35-v2i-detail)
Thanks
End of subject.. Lock the thread if u like..
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Not sure what you mean by trouble when reversing-the mchitch on my GIC is a dream to hookup, reverse or even tow. Don't even have to be 100 % lined up underneath. So long as I'm within 100 mm from under the hitch I'm able to hookup. Them hitch masters look very nice too as I've seen them in the flesh being used and all thumbs up.
Cheers
Frank
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There is another one that ppl havent talked about and thats the alko hit ?? Whats their price and what a they like??
By the looks of the mchitch, it looks like it has 2 points that can turn or swivel.. And the uni joint sticking out like they makes it look homemade and dodgy..
I am making 2 trailers and will put one of these mchitchs on one of the trailers i think and try it out myself based on people's recommendations on the group..
Thanks
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Yeah only 1 moving joint- the uni. The part that attaches to the tongue on the car hitch is notched underneath and locates over the tongue , kind of like the Tregg with its 2 little legs to stop it from spinning. Hope that makes sense. But yeah once u try it u will understand what I mean
Cheers
Frank
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Ok so how do u remove it when parked at a caravan park etc, and how long have you used it for..? And
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Ok so the piece that is on the draw bar is the whole mechanism including the universal joint and coupling. All that is attached to the vehicle tow tongue is the pin which is essentially like a towball.
If the pics show below it should be self explanatory.
Cheers
Frank
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And the coupling
This is a view from underneath and you can see the hole where the pin slots into and also the 2 "legs" I mentioned earlier about locating the hitch to the tongue.
Cheers
Frank
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Wow, super thanks.
Thanks very much for taking the time and the photos for me..
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No worries
Cheers
Frank
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http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=28350.0 (http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=28350.0)
This should be what you need to read.
;D ;D ;D