Author Topic: Farm Fencing  (Read 4631 times)

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Offline DannyG

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Farm Fencing
« on: November 13, 2019, 11:28:10 AM »
I am considering putting up around 330 mtrs of rural style fencing along a couple of boundary lines.

So before I go to the local Ag store and start asking questions about something I know absolutely nothing about, I thought I will ask the silly questions here first  ;D

I do know the basic idea of needing solid end and corner stays so I can pull tension on the wire but that's about the extent of my fencing knowledge besides knowing that you should not wee on an electric fence.

Being a tight arse I want to do this as cheap as possible and at best all Ill ever need to keep in are a few sheep. The neighbouring properties also only really have sheep.

So for those that know a thing or two about this can you please school me a little. I was hoping to simply dig some holes and concrete either treated pine posts or a prefabbed steel corner stay posts at either end of the straight runs. And then bang steel droppers in along the fence line. Pull a strand of wire along the top and put that prefab 'stiff stay' style fencing along the bottom.

That sort of fencing seems to work ok around here. Of course there are many variations of this in the area but all the others look more expensive, EG some people use a treated pine post every now and then with steel droppers in between for some reason. Others use all treated posts instead of droppers. I assume its due to the type of stock they are trying to keep in?

Thanks for any tips or advice. I have a lot more questions about the finer details but Ill wait and see if anyone chimes in that knows a bit about this first.
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Offline Marcus73

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2019, 12:26:30 PM »
I know some stuff


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Offline Champin

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2019, 12:35:15 PM »
I used to put a box strainer at the end or a corner then a post every 1/2 k star pickets about a chain or every 22mtrs and droppers in between. But that was on a station over west with average of 30 000 acre paddocks. Fairly long straight runs. We didn't concrete either. We mixed the removed dirt into a slurry back into the hole. Worked for us but also depends on terrain.

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Offline Champin

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2019, 12:38:19 PM »
Just to clarify, that was 5 wire sheep fencing

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Offline Gazza00

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2019, 01:07:46 PM »
Cyclone Fencing producs used to have a lot of "How to " info brochures on fencing, tips, errecting etc.  Not sure if they still produce them.
 Maybe have a look in the local Ag store and see if they have any

Offline Gazza00

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2019, 01:21:03 PM »
might have been Waratah  now that i think about it

https://www.waratahfencing.com.au/how-to/design-your-fence/livestock-fencing/sheep-fencing

Offline Craig Tomkinson

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2019, 01:28:20 PM »
I thought you had to use wire netting or ring lock to keep sheep in, other wish they just go strait through wire, In NZ they use plain wire but the droppers are only really close together, Craig
« Last Edit: November 13, 2019, 01:30:09 PM by Craig Tomkinson »
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Offline Bigfish

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2019, 01:39:46 PM »
I,d talk to your local fencing bloke.  Being a tight arse on fencing is also a waste of money and time. Do it once and do it properly...its an investment after all.
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Offline bmwfreak

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Farm Fencing
« Reply #8 on: November 13, 2019, 01:55:50 PM »
I,d talk to your local fencing bloke.  Being a tight arse on fencing is also a waste of money and time. Do it once and do it properly...its an investment after all. :cup: :cup: :cup:
At our previous property in the Lockyer Valley, QLD, we needed to fence front and back @ 40m ea, and one side @ 110m. I had access to a shipment of 75x75x2.5 duragal RHS which was cut to 2200mm lengths for a customer. The customer rejected the lot due to discolouration (looked like urine). We dug 900mm deep holes, with a hired post hole driller, 4m apart and used three strands of plain 3.15mm gal fencing wire, which was threaded through the holes I drilled in the posts. Next, we added 1.2m hingejoint using ringlocks. To finish the job we added caps for the posts.
I’ll post a picture, if I can find one.
Edit:This was taken during the 2011 deluge, but the fence is visible (sort of)
« Last Edit: November 13, 2019, 02:01:49 PM by bmwfreak »
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Offline Troopy_03

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #9 on: November 13, 2019, 04:29:07 PM »
At our previous property in the Lockyer Valley, QLD, we needed to fence front and back @ 40m ea, and one side @ 110m. I had access to a shipment of 75x75x2.5 duragal RHS which was cut to 2200mm lengths for a customer. The customer rejected the lot due to discolouration (looked like urine). We dug 900mm deep holes, with a hired post hole driller, 4m apart and used three strands of plain 3.15mm gal fencing wire, which was threaded through the holes I drilled in the posts. Next, we added 1.2m hingejoint using ringlocks. To finish the job we added caps for the posts.
I’ll post a picture, if I can find one.
Edit:This was taken during the 2011 deluge, but the fence is visible (sort of)


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Offline Rowlie

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2019, 05:18:02 PM »
I did some rural fencing in Tas when I was much younger and again recently here in Vic when I volunteered with Blazeaid following a bushfire event last summer. Things had changed a bit but mainly just personal preferences and some different techniques on this side of Bass Strait. I am about to embark on re fencing a 5 acre property we have recently acquired also primarily for sheep and this is how I'll be doing it. Treated pine (CCA) straining posts (2) with a rail of 2m running between them at each end of a run. Strainers should be a little larger than the rest of the posts. I'll be going 5 inch or 125mm (most rural suppliers still use imperial) x 1.8m with 600mm in the ground. You'll need either steel or fibreglass pins and a 3/8 auger drill bit to join the rails to the strainers. Run a double wire diagonally between the straining posts and strain it before doing a fencers knot or just twist both ends several times. Run ring lock (sheep) and 2 strands of plain wire supported by 75mm posts every 6m. Star droppers can be interspersed and spacing is a personal preference thing - look around. Don't run the wires through the holes in the droppers. Use tie wire and twist it round the wire. The ring lock should be hung with the smaller squares at the bottom. Loosely hook the ring lock up before straining it. In addition to wire strainers there is a ring lock strainer you can get but personally I don't use one. Just thread a star dropper or something similar through it and strain from the middle. There's a knack to it. You'll need staples to secure the ring lock and wires to the timber posts but don't drive them all the way home. Leave enough loop to allow the wires to be re strained in the future. I don't use cement around my posts. Ram earth around them with the head of a crow bar and you'll get a better result (imho).
Good luck with it.
Rowlie

Offline Hewy54

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2019, 05:50:13 PM »
For that length you will need to put a corner box at each end. This is a strainer (usually a 8' post), with a stay post about 10' away (7') then a rail between them and wire bracing from bottom of strainer to top of stay. This wire bracing need to be strained up. Steel picket every 4m with a 6' post after every 5 pickets. Top plain wire in 2.5 mm, plain wire then another plain wire on the bottom. then 7strand ringlock for sheep. Ringlock comes in rolls of 200m or 100m. You would need to buy a wire strainer and a bar strainer for the ringlock. Have a look on utube as there are lots to help out.

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Offline DannyG

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #12 on: November 13, 2019, 06:24:04 PM »
All good info gents thanks very much.

One silly question. Why do you have to use timber posts in between the steel droppers. Why can’t it be all steel droppers?
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Offline Hoyks

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #13 on: November 13, 2019, 06:44:38 PM »
I'm also of the do it once do it right school. I've had to re-do a few fences in my time.
If you ever think of putting in horses, then don't go with mesh, they can be surprisingly stupid and a leg through the wire will either be a new horse or a vet bill that will give the cost of the fence a run for its money.

For sheep or goats I'd go either ringlock or hinge joint, heavy chook wire is also an option. Plain wire they will more than likely escape and if there are any dogs around they will have no trouble getting in and making a mess of your sheep. 3' high ringlock with a plain wire 6" above that or 4' ringlock clipped to the top wire.
http://www.cycloneproducts.com.au/fencing/wire

For posts, Wood look rustic, but if there is any chance of fire or your stock are going to be tough on fences, then I'd go with steel with star pickets.

If you know anyone with a fence post/pile driver, call them in and just smash them into the ground, it will save you a heap of time and effort... and concrete. For wood, I've only ever dug a hole, dropped the post in and tamped the dirt in around it.

If you can get past this guys American enthusiasm, the pros he has doing the job show some tips that will make it easier and give a good result.

https://youtu.be/VOutqDJnPqA
https://youtu.be/djN5VoaPlnA
https://youtu.be/CPXxCvPJpNo
https://youtu.be/KMYRronbMxE


No reason you can't have corner/strainer posts and star pickets/posts in between.
You have to confirm the terminology though, some call 'droppers' the metal strips that keep the wires at a set spacing, but don't actually touch the ground.

« Last Edit: November 13, 2019, 07:21:57 PM by Hoyks »

Offline xcvator

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #14 on: November 13, 2019, 06:58:04 PM »
Don't know if it still holds, but Elders used to lend you a "ringlock strainer" if you bought the wire from them
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Offline Hewy54

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2019, 07:19:03 PM »
All good info gents thanks very much.

One silly question. Why do you have to use timber posts in between the steel droppers. Why can’t it be all steel droppers?
Can use all pickets, but a bit stronger with some 6' posts in between. If you ram the dirt around the base of the posts you do not have to concrete them in

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Offline Hewy54

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #16 on: November 13, 2019, 07:25:45 PM »
Just some little things as well.
As Rowlie said, use tie wire to secure the wire to the picket, do not run it thru the holes.
The picket is triangular. put them in with the holes facing toward the paddock so it gives a wider edge on the outide for when the stock push against it.
Run the wire and ringlock on the paddock side of any posts or pickets.
Do not over strain the wire. Over a 200m length, 2.5 mm wire will expand/contract by 300 mm. If you overstrain it on a hot day (40C), it will contract by 300mm when the temp drops to 10c.

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Offline Hoyks

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #17 on: November 13, 2019, 07:27:20 PM »
Can use all pickets, but a bit stronger with some 6' posts in between. If you ram the dirt around the base of the posts you do not have to concrete them in

If there is a significant change of direction, then put in a heavy post. Cresting a ridge or holding the fence to the ground in a dip, then you might want one. A tight fence can pull out star pickets of the ground when it gets wet or put enough strain to bend the picket if its pushed off the vertical.

Offline DannyG

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2019, 07:58:36 PM »
Perfect thanks.

The fence run is perfectly straight but it starts off flat at the bottom and goes up a hill so yep, I’d say the strain of the wire is a chance of trying to pull the droppers upwards.
I’ll put some posts in.
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Offline S.W

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #19 on: November 14, 2019, 08:02:52 AM »
I use 80NB galv steel posts for strainers and corners, with 40NB galv stays. Same as the ones in the link below, but I make my own.

https://www.southernwire.com.au/shop/rural-products/strainers-fence-posts/tubular-strainer-assemblies/

Aim to get your strainer posts at least 900mm in the ground, the deeper the better.

I've got 5 plain wires plus a barb along the top, with 5' 6" star posts every 7.5m.

Apart from the strainers, I use Waratah products exclusively. They also make a product called Tensor Sensor, which is ideal for a beginner to achieve the right tension.

Offline DannyG

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #20 on: November 14, 2019, 08:49:22 AM »
Thank you very much for the advice. I am now a lot clearer on what I can and should not do and itll make it easier when I go to the Ag store to start pricing everything.

My Pop was a sheep farmer all his life. In fact in his area his farm was massive (for Tassie sizes!), he even has a road named after him. As kids of course we spent quite a lot of time on the farm but it was just tractor rides, playing in the wool sheds and that type of thing. Never involved in any of the work.
I moved interstate at a young age so I never really got to spend a lot of time with him for a couple of decades.

When I moved back to Tassie my visits to pops was the typical xmas, birthday type things. He had two sons who helped keep his property in shape, so again I never really got involved in the farming side of it. I very much regret this. Pop sadly passed away a few years ago and I now find myself asking my dear old Mother things about the farm. Simple things like turning scrub into grass, building fences, different questions about sheep etc. All the things a grandson should have been involved in when he was a kid.

My place is just small acreage on a hillside so it is far from what Pop had but I need to fence a couple of boundaries if I want to use a couple of sheep to keep the grass down.

I was going to get the local fencing people to do it for me and at $8 a metre its not too bad but I figured I have plenty of time so I may as well have a crack myself.

I attached a pic to show where the fences need to go. What the pic doesn't show is the significant slope.
The green line is where I want to do the first fence.
The blue line has existing fences.
The pink line will also need a fence at some stage but for the time being I will attempt to put up something movable that goes diagonally from the green line across to the blue line which will follow a large cut to fill platform where the house etc is now built. (this photo is a few years old, the platform where the camper sits ended up being twice that size)

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Offline Chappie

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #21 on: November 14, 2019, 09:17:51 AM »
Hi Danny, have you looked at exclusion fencing? We have friends on properties who seem to be using this more and more.  In western queensland they are using it to help control dingos.
Might be worth looking at seeing as though there are a few neighbours so probably a few dogs as well?
Unfortunatley sheep will often run from a dog which can trigger the dog to chase them, even if the dog doesnt bite the sheep it can put animals through fences, onto roads and generally where there not supposed to go.
Also consider a simple yard down the track for drenching and other husbandry if neeeded?
https://clipex.com.au/exclusion-fencing/

Cheers
Iain
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Offline wetduck

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #22 on: November 14, 2019, 11:14:41 AM »
what equipment have you got? tractor mounted post hole digger to set strainers, chainsaw for morticing in stays? Soil type, star pickets will sink under weight of fence in some soils but can work if interspersed with timber posts. Check out what works in your district. Sheep fencing is usually 900mm high ringlock or hinged joint with a barbed wire at 1200. Undulating fenceline needs posts closer.

Mostly Iron Bark strainers and split posts around here. I find pipe stays easier to manage.

Offline paul.o

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #23 on: November 14, 2019, 12:16:37 PM »
Hey Danny,

I'm going through the same thing needing to keep the new dog in/others out.

This bloke on youtube seems to make sense and explains a few things also.

His name is Tim Thompson.

All the best.

And also, I too have settled on the "Do it once, do it Right" mantra. ;D

Offline Hewy54

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Re: Farm Fencing
« Reply #24 on: November 14, 2019, 04:02:14 PM »
If you could get it for $8 a metre to include materials and installation that is a good price. Price up your materials first as well as any equipment you need to buy/hire, then make a choice on doing it yourself or getting the professionals to do it.

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